Finally, a show where there's an excited buzz afterwards. Finally, a show where the conceptual production values match the beautifully realised clothes. Day One of Fashion Week ended with Zambesi underlining how 30 years of experience adds up to a cohesive styling approach that can still deliver surprising twists.
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a filmed backdrop of a moody tree and skyscape, the models strode forth in signature suiting, chunky knits, and draped dresses.
A print with painterly stripes splashed irregularly across georgette tunic dresses and tops. Gold-patterned puce coloured silk used in a fluid dress and a man's shirt with tie-front. Palest grey and camel were key colours for men's and women's wear, alongside the expected black, charcoal and inky shades. Teal and chocolate combined in loosely woven knits and a bold lattice weave repeatedly figured in body-cloaking tunic tops.
Dayne Johnston's menswear hung together with assurance: slim cuts, cropped pants, sharp jackets, trenches and trim woollen coats. A jacket had the appearance of being double-breasted, but the buttons fastened on only one side. Another jacket had a raised shoulder, further defining its crisp silhouette. Vinyl figured in pants and sleeves.
Label co-founder Elisabeth Findlay fashioned a deliciously curvy woman's coat in soft grey. She used camel and caramel wools in layers, topped with a cocoon of a shrug. Her black knits, defined by diagonal cables, had a Japanese aesthetic, loosely wrapping the body.
Accompanied by a reading of Jack Kerouac's Last Hotel and ending with the soaring notes of a rough-hewn version of Kate Bush's Heathcliff, this was a show people will be talking about all week. But by then they'll be queuing up to get into Saturday's Zambesi Retrospective.
