Euro Deli, Albany

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

We were looking for a rug for the lounge. It took just 10 minutes to get lost circling North Ridge Plaza, which seems to be a homage to the Californian strip mall: mammoth chainstore outlets which all look the same, scanty plantings, enough asphalt to pave a small village.

Anyway, we were hungry, and decided to chance it at Euro Deli, which from the outside appeared to be a professional supply store, some place you might buy a really expensive espresso machine, but on closer inspection revealed itself as one of those so-called European-style eateries with a funky paint job and a few shelves of gourmet biscuits and olives.

After ordering -- an irritating experience when the woman behind the counter couldn't even be bothered making eye-contact -- we chose a table in the sun outside, next to a rather nice planter box and that big ol' carpark.

The food was quick and, given our poor impression of the cafe thus far, surprisingly good. Tim's Euro grill ($15.50) was a bang-up assortment of the usuals: poached eggs, thick wholegrain toast, proper German sausage, grilled tomato, hash browns out of the box -- with the addition of black pudding and a side of chutney (50c). The black pudding was bland, perhaps to cause least offence, but he got two large pieces.

My hotcakes ($12.90) came with grilled fruit (apple, orange, pineapple, grapes), bacon, a dusting of icing sugar and a torrent of maple syrup. I prefer my hotcakes with a bit more body and thicker syrup, but I would happily eat Euro's version again, if I happened to be lost in North Ridge Plaza looking for curtains or gymshoes.

The drinks were average. My English breakfast tea ($2.50) was of the bag-and-hot-water variety, while Tim's iced chocolate was overstyled (no drink needs that much whipped cream on top), although we approved of the small chocolate fish stuck on the rim like cocktail garnish.

We left Euro Deli replete, but unnerved by the cafe's lack of personality. The food surpassed expectations, pity about the rude service. We didn't find a rug, either.

Euro Deli, North Ridge Plaza, 3a Don McKinnon Drive, Albany, Ph (09) 414-1059

Service

Nothing to smile about

Parking

The carpark goes on and on ...

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.