Emma Gleason: Say no to activewear and try harder

Photo / Thinkstock

Opinion

Like man-buns, denim cut-offs and flatform shoes - some trends are inescapable. Although some are found in specific microcosms like Ponsonby Road, "athleisure" is sweeping the world and is thoroughly shaking up fashion retailers and the fitness world alike.

If you've ventured to any local cafes, farmers' markets, shopping strips or even simply left your house in the past year, you will have noticed the inescapable popularity of athletic apparel regardless of the occasion or dress code. From young females in head-to-toe lycra and mothers in searingly bright neons, to every second male in a pair of Nike Roshes; the trend of "athleisure" is dominant, popular and inescapable. No longer are people's pecs, gluts and groins shrouded in a veil of mystery or clothing, but fully on display for the world to see - and marvel at their healthy, active lifestyle (in case you missed their Les Mills bumper sticker and cold-pressed juice).

As people unknowingly (or otherwise) promote their own personal brand, their choice of "athleisure" as their sartorial message acts as a lifestyle advertisement - conveying healthy living, financial stability and broadcasting their values in line with society's lofty standards of wellbeing and physical ideals. There's understandable appeal in athletic apparel; stretchy lycra and sneakers are appealingly comfortable with the added benefit of sucking in any lumps or bumps. At the same time they create a smokescreen of fitness and health regardless of whether you actually possess both or not.

However what is an easy option is descending into a sartorial cop out. By defaulting to athleisure, you're avoiding both the opportunity to communicate your style and taste - not to mention avoiding supporting local retailers.

Athleisure says little about a person other than the aforementioned; the potential message and impact of carefully considered apparel is infinite and finely tuned. Whether you opt for elegance, blue denim or a nostalgic approach, the playing field is wide open when it comes to the opportunity to present yourself. Style should be effortless but not lazy. Considering and balancing important things like proportion, texture and thinking about a garment's history is infinitely more rewarding (and reflects far more admirably on you) than squeezing on some neon lycra and calling it a day. Harness romanticism, nostalgia, modernity and quality (whatever is of value to you) and embrace this instead of defaulting to the norm.

By supporting enormous, international sports companies, it's the small-scale local labels who suffer. Disregarding the can of worms that is dubious manufacturing practices, your dollar is still going to a faceless corporation churning out facsimiles of fitness and the Western ideal. The dominance of the athleisure industry has understandably sent brands across the world into a panic; combined with declining retail sales, tightrope margins and the competitive visibility of the online market - it's enough to have any business clutching at the nearest sneakers. Everyone from Country Road to Alexander Wang are incorporating athleisure into the retail offerings - be it in the form of a separate line or an increasingly visible inspiration to the mainline collections; compromising and diluting their design handwriting and stylistic values to embrace an all encompassing "lifestlye"and to hang on to a slice of the valued consumer dollar and retain some relevance.

But what happens when the trend is over? Everyone tires of crossfit, juice cleanses and their latest uniform and moves on to whatever is next. True athletic brands like Adidas and Nike will always survive (although the former has had public struggles with their brand positioning) however anyone who's tried to incorporate athleisure into their business is in trouble; dilute too much and you're left with a watered down brand essence, sudden irrelevance and a warehouse full of lycra. Meanwhile the consumer no longer understands your brand identity nor remembers why they shopped there in the first place.

It's absolutely admirable to embrace a healthy lifestyle, but if it's all encompassing then everyone loses in some way. Try harder, try to be elegant and try to present a look that embodies the full you; set your sartorial bar high and give yourself things of quality and beauty, life is too short to spend it all wearing gym gear. Consider what you want to communicate about yourself and how; embrace thoughtful consumption, local designers and your own approach to style - and most importantly, look forward.

Are you for a fan or a foe of the trend? Join the discussion on the NZ Herald Life Facebook page

- nzherald.co.nz