Don't put off taking the plunge this summer

You may think it's a little early to start putting yourself through the torture that buying a pair of togs involves. There's nothing quite as demoralising as those fitting-room fluorescent lights that reveal every wintry flaw of your untanned physique.

Believe it or not, there is a good reason to start thinking about togs. Anyone who has tried to buy a swimsuit mid-summer will be able to testify that by then the most popular sizes and flattering styles sold out weeks before temperatures even started to rise.

Retro looks?

Yes please. There is plenty of vintage inspiration to be seen in swimwear this summer and that means everything from 60s-style sirens who look like they've just walked off the set of Octopussy to bohemian beach babes dangling wooden beads from their crocheted tops.

Some overseas labels have always gone mad for retro-hip. New York-based label Imitation of Christ even updated the sort of bulky maillot your granny would have worn.

But the best way for the girl next door to take part in this poolside trend is by wearing flattering shapes such as the 70s-style halter-neck. Go for retro colours and cute detailing like low-slung 60s belts and buckles.

Halterneck, bandeau or wrap top?

All these make for fashionable shapes, with halter-neck tops - on bikinis, one-pieces and tankinis - the most popular.

For the well-endowed, a thicker band along the bottom of the halter and strong straps give extra support, lift and control, while still providing cleavage.

For those smaller on top, the right halter-neck will pull your assets up and together, if you know what we mean.

Wrap-tops work best on the smaller bust - they're not quite as supportive as halter-necks. Bandeaus are best left to the perky or pubescent.

Swimwear designers are making forays into developing underwired tops and they can be as comfortable as your favourite bra. These days there are more designs than ever in swimwear that actually fit well. Popular Australian label Seafolly always does a great job with these.

Prints or plain?

There are so many choices in swimwear that every bikini-buyer can afford to experiment a bit. A couple of years ago smarter swimwear manufacturers started to make separates, so that if you were a size 14 on top and a size 12 on the bottom you could buy two different pieces. These days, you can mix and match prints and colours, too.

If you know your best features are your shoulders and chest, then go for plain pants and something printed on top, drawing attention to your upper rather than your lower half.

Big on the beach this summer will be 60s-style geometric shapes as well as stripes in mellow 70s colours such as brown and teal.

Tribal prints and delicate florals have managed to leave the runway and get into the water. Best bets for the indecisive are the reversible mix'n'match tops and bottoms made by Moontide.

Beads, buckles, belts and bows?

Even if you're not the sort of beachgoer who likes to flaunt her booty, these details can make a subtle difference.

On the New York runways, there were all sorts of crazy details ... rhinestones, studs, crystals ... even miniature handmade gold bananas.

But down at your local strand you're more likely to see sleek 60s plastic rings and buckles and wooden beads at the end of a 70s-style halter top, and elegant ruching or a ladylike bow atop a hipster waistband or bikini.

Keep in mind a detail will draw the eye - use embellishments to accentuate your best bits.

Sash or string tie?

This thicker sash or ribbon tie seems to have replaced that sexy string tie at the hip, shoulder or chest. Happily, these more solid pieces of fabric make tie-at-the-side bikinis more wearable - more fabric and more support.

Flounces and ruffles?

It's sweet, feminine and super-cute, but whether a polka dot ruffle on your bottom suits you is another matter. It adds extra fabric and emphasis to that part of the body, so probably best left to the slim of hip. On the smaller cleavage, however, it can add volume.

So what if you choose a swimsuit with an added skirt - there are a lot about this year. To avoid looking like a 12-year-old, make sure it has a retro or elegant feel.

How about cut-outs?

They look fabulous in a fashion shoot, make models look divinely glamorous, and they're a huge trend.

But these things can be difficult to wear. Cut-outs are merciless when it comes to bulges and rolls. And their spider-web type of construction means they may not provide much support. And even if you're tall and have perky breasts, your tan lines are going to look weird.

Such swimsuits decidedly look best if you're planning to be a Joan Collins in big white sunglasses and stay very, very still by the hotel pool.

Shorts, hipsters or boy legs?

Most bikini bottoms these days are hipsters, sitting on the pelvic bones just under the tummy. It's a more flattering shape for most people.

If you're worried about an unexercised stomach popping out over the top, then wear them with a tank-top style of bikini. Boy-leg bottoms - that is, bikini pants with slightly longer legs - need to fit perfectly. If not, they'll either cut off your circulation or give the impression that you have very short legs.

Some of the latest shorts may be the best option if you're worried about the tops of your legs. Swimwear designers have been cutting feminine board-shorts for surfer girls and the more fashionable brands are following suit, with towelling and printed numbers that everyone can wear with style.

Out of the question

* Mesh or sheer inserts so 80s, darlings, but not in a good way.

* High-cut bikini pants. If they make supermodel Naomi Campbell's hips look large, imagine what they'll do to you. If you must have 'em, get a one-piece.

* V-shaped waists on bikini pants - more nasty visual trickery that doesn't work.

* G-strings. Only in Brazil and on the firmest of butts, thank you.

* Super-shiny fabrics. All trends point towards the matt or natural look.

* Speedos - nobody needs to have a beautiful sunny day ruined.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.