Ding How

By WARREN GAMBLE for canvas

Winter keeps you under the duvet for hours. By the time you manage to brave a cold Saturday you are famished, especially after a night when you can't remember eating much, or much of anything.

Who are you going to call? Yum char.

The Chinese equivalent of brunch is a perfect antidote to hangovers and one of the best yum char exponents is Ding How, in inner-city St Patrick's Square.

Up two flights of stairs, you meet the obliging Hong Kong managers of the place. Despite being relative regulars, we have developed a curious ritual greeting. They ask if we have a reservation, we say no, sorry. They look stern and worried, poring over the register. Then we get shown to one of the round tables which dot the large room.

We have never been turned away, but admittedly we get there soon after the doors open at 11.30am. By the time we finish, the restaurant is invariably nearing capacity ... After a few small cups of Chinese tea - yum char literally means to drink tea, and is another great restorer after the night before - you are ready to address the procession of waitresses vying for your taste buds.

No need for menus and pesky decisions; everything comes to you on a plate or a metal steaming dish.

Yum char makes you necessarily adventurous. Often the staff have limited English and can't explain the delights of curried squid, prawn dumplings, pork knuckles, curried fish balls, barbecued pork rice rolls, or our favourite sui mai - tender steamed pork dumplings.

Those with Fear Factor palates can tackle the chicken's feet which literally require sucking on the toes of the unfortunate birds, or the variety of offal on offer.

The four bite-sized portions for each dish can be deceptive - it's easy to get carried away with the ordering. The plates keep coming until you finally admit defeat.

Ding How has perfected the yum char service, a flurry of interesting, beautifully cooked dishes which always pack a few surprises. And all at a thoroughly reasonable price. Our nine dishes cost only $32.

And just to be sure, next time we'll make a reservation.

Open: Seven days, 11.30am-2.30pm lunch; 6pm-10.30pm dinner

Parking: Plentiful in side streets and the old Farmers carpark nearby.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.