Deve, Kingsland

The fillet of beef, potatoes, spinach and mushrooms. Picture / Greg Bowker

It's sad to see an old friend let herself go. Helpless, you look on, concerned she doesn't care any more — getting more scruffy, tired and grubby by the year. After some time, you realise with guilt you've been avoiding her.

That's the way it's been with poor old Deve in Kingsland, which has lately faded from its former semi-glory as a cool neighbourhood hangout, to a shabby joint serving mediocre food. Even the PM, who once confessed to a great fondness for Deve, appeared to have abandoned it, but then she is rarely seen in this area — her electorate — these days. However, there is an election coming up ...

Oh happy days! Deve's former owners have gone, and the old girl is experiencing a renaissance thanks to new guardians Alyson Moore, a delightful Irish woman, and her New Zealand partner, chef-kitchen manager Grant Donoghue.

Progress has been swift. Moore and Donoghue have freshened up the decor, there are attractive plants at the door, the service has improved out of sight and, best of all, the reasonably priced menu has had a complete revamp. Punters have noticed: when we visited, on a Monday night, the place was heaving, yet the atmosphere remained relaxed.

Deve's dinner menu is thought out in such a way that passing locals can pop in for a quick bite and drink on the way home. There are breads and dips, an antipasti plate, chicken liver pate with brioche, or simply a bowl of olives enjoyed with a glass of wine from a well-considered list.

But we were there to have a more leisurely mooch through the menu, and first enjoyed as starters the smoked salmon and roast sliced kumara stack, with a citrus and caper creme fraiche. That proved a capital marriage of flavours and texture.

Don was in heaven with his panfried calamari with chilli jam; the calamari, so easy to under or overcook, was faultless.

Bill tried toasted goats cheese with olive tapenade, caramelized onion crostini, with a balsamic reduction. He quite liked it, but would not try again. "Cheese on toast," was his fusspot verdict. I think he had his eyes on the calamari.

For mains, Don was well-pleased with his choice of fillet of beef, meltingly tender on a throne of roasted rosemary potatoes, balsamic mushrooms and creamed spinach. This comes with a choice of two sauces: port and blue cheese, or drambuie and mushroom, of which Don chose the latter. He gave it the nod.

Bill was also content with his moist roasted chicken breast wrapped in smoked bacon, served with couscous, spiced pumpkin and spinach pesto.

I will try, another day, the honey soy pork fillet, the slow-roasted lamb shanks, or the fish of the day, which, on this occasion, was snapper panfried with spinach and roast aubergine rosti. I selected the special of salt-and-pepper squid, presented as little morsels of crusty, spicy squid nestled under a bothersome mound of rocket. The squid was good, but served the other way round might be a good idea.

All was not perfect. As Bill observed, lines of balsamic circled just about every dish, if it was not also used to cook the dish, as in the panfried balsamic chicken. The side dish of french fries also let the side down — soggy.

Our labours finally led us to dessert. On offer was vanilla bean panna cotta with berries, brown-sugar ginger cake, double nut chocolate torte, crepes with fruit and icecream. We opted instead to share the cheeseboard, which came well presented with a range of soft, cheddar and blue cheeses, with pineapple, sundried tomatoes, grapes and lemon oil. And, we laughed, balsamic.

WHERE: Deve, 460 New North Rd, Kingsland. (09) 846 9997

OUR MEAL: $162 for two courses for three people, plus one shared dessert. Seven glasses of wine and three coffees.

OUR WINES: By the glass $6.50 to $8.50. Bottles from $29 to $40.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.