Cibo, Parnell

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

When you phone on Thursday and secure the last available table for Friday, you know that the recent personal difficulties of Cibo's former shareholder Philip Sturm — jailed last year for sexual offences against men — have done nothing to dim its allure.

My previous experience of this Parnell favourite was lunch under the outdoor sail. That was out of the question tonight as Auckland's weather descended into a tropical downpour — although one large group was still willing to brave it.

As promised, the dining room was packed, mostly with a more aged version of the Parnell girl — all peroxide and gold, so I felt right at home. The decor is gilt mirror and palm tree elegant. The menu so varied and interesting we soon resorted to glancing around at other people's plates to help narrow our selection. "Prawns" whispered the waitress, noticing our interest as she delivered same to the neighbouring table.

Being pillars of restraint the three of us decided to share the three tastes of prawn which included them as a dumpling in soup, and as open ravioli.

Jane went on to pan-fried snapper with leak, pea and fennel risotto ($29.15), Royden to the
venison with ratatouille and tempura courgette flower ($32.50), and me to the Szechuan cured duck accompanied by shrimp-stuffed eggplant and Chinese cabbage and ginger sake broth ($32). It was one of the more memorable dishes I have had in a while. The duck crispy-skinned and juicy, the combination of shrimp and eggplant divine.

All was accompanied by my favourite chardonnay of the moment: Craggy Range Gimblett Rd ($52) and side dishes of greens, salad and hot potatoes ($5 to $8 or so each).

Service was a little patchy given Parnell diners all seem to arrive and leave at the same time. But we should have been more co-operative when first asked if we were ready to order. The wait was of our making.

We finished the evening with baked Alaska with cassata parfait and berry curd ($13.50) for Jane, aged parmesan with balsamic and pear for Royden ($16.50) and blue cheese with quince jelly for me ($10), accompanied by De Bortolli's Noble One ($13.50)

Our only complaint from a fabulous evening: Royden said his chair was uncomfortable.


Ambience: Parnell chic

Cost: $247 for one entree, three main courses with side dishes, one dessert and two cheeses, plus wine.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.