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Home / Lifestyle

Chasing a plate in ... Krabi

NZ Herald
28 Apr, 2019 09:01 PM5 mins to read

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Southern Thai food is known for being ferociously spicy and vibrant, with spices and herbs like turmeric, galangal and kaffir lime leaf. Photo / Supplied

Southern Thai food is known for being ferociously spicy and vibrant, with spices and herbs like turmeric, galangal and kaffir lime leaf. Photo / Supplied

Kiwi food YouTubers Thomas & Sheena Southam are on an eternal quest to find the most delicious local food the world has to offer. This week, they check out the best bites in Krabi.

Krabi is the gateway to Thailand's palm-fringed beaches and while the islands of Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi beckon, if you're into food, you'll want to set aside a bit of time to explore the mainland before succumbing to the languid pace of island life.

Krabi is a compact town, easy to explore on foot, making the discovery of small local restaurants and markets a breeze.

You can tick off all your Thai food favourites here but you'll also find dozens of spots to sample southern Thai cuisine - very different to the usual dishes you stumble across in Bangkok or up north. Put your togs on hold for a couple of days longer and hunt down these mouthwatering food experiences:

1. Test your spice tolerance…

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Southern Thai food is known for being ferociously hot and vibrant with spices and herbs
like turmeric, galangal and kaffir lime leaf. The spice is not the type that's at first intense
then quickly burns out, it's more the kind that starts as a slow rumble then continues
burning until it's an inferno, the effects of which can last, well, days.

If you're hesitant about committing to a full spread at a restaurant, get a taste of the cuisine by visiting a curry and rice stall at a market. Here you can get a plate of rice and sample spoonfuls of gaeng som - a thin sour fish curry redolent with turmeric and chilli, and khua kling - a dry meat curry rich with the flavours of coconut milk and kaffir lime leaf.

The food is intense, the flavours clear and pure and well worth braving the chilli for!

Sample southern Thai food at Khao Gaeng Curry Stall at the City Market, Soi 10 Maharat Rd, Krabi. Open daily 3pm-8pm.

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2. It's all about the street food…

One of the best lunches in town can be found on the street. Khanom jeen (rice noodles and curry) vendors set up their giant pots of curry sauce and garnish their tables with bowls of fresh and pickled vegetables and herbs, ready for hungry diners to dive in.

A slippery pile of rice noodles is coated with your choice of curry sauce (we're fans of the minced fish curry) before you pick and choose from the platter of communal greens to add to your bowl.

This type of food is fun to eat: it's all about varying textures, temperatures and flavours. Slurp your noodles and soothe the curry burn with slices of cucumber. Cleanse your palate with crunchy, raw long beans and ramp things up again with the sour twang of pickled mustard greens.

Khanom jeen is a slippery pile of rice noodles coated with your choice of curry sauce before you pick and choose from the platter of communal greens to add to your bowl. Photo / Supplied
Khanom jeen is a slippery pile of rice noodles coated with your choice of curry sauce before you pick and choose from the platter of communal greens to add to your bowl. Photo / Supplied

Eat khanom jeen at the stall located on the corner of 4 Maharaj Rd, Krabi. Open morning until afternoon.

3. Breakfast with the locals…

Eschew your hotel breakfast for the local fare at Maharaj Market. This morning wet market
teems with stalls selling seafood, produce, meat and general household goods but it also has a sizeable food centre. Long communal tables are flanked by stalls selling everything from fried chicken and noodles to sweets and drinks. Ponder what you'll eat over a Thai tea: cha yen if you want it cold or cha ron if you prefer it hot. Both feature strong black tea sweetened with plenty of condensed milk.

If the amount of choice leaves you bewildered, the khao kha moo is always a winner: pork legs braised in star anise, soy and cinnamon piled on top of white rice doused in braising liquid. It's melt-in-your-mouth meat accompanied by blanched gai lan (Chinese broccoli) and sour chilli vinegar. It sure sets you up for the day!

Thai tea is strong black tea sweetened with plenty of condensed milk, called cha yen if you want it cold or cha ron if you prefer it hot. Photo / Supplied
Thai tea is strong black tea sweetened with plenty of condensed milk, called cha yen if you want it cold or cha ron if you prefer it hot. Photo / Supplied

Eat breakfast at 69 Maharaj 7 Alley, Tambon Pak Nam, Amphoe Mueang Krabi. Open daily 6am-1pm.

4. Eat the best pad Thai in the region

We had to add this for those of you who make it to Koh Lanta. If you visit this island and you don't eat a pad Thai, you've missed out. Nobody wants FOMO, and least of all pad Thai FOMO, so get your butt to Phad Thai Rock n Roll. What was once a couple of tables outside the front of owner Khun Jaeb's house is now a large restaurant which you'll find packed with people whatever time of the day you visit. The quality of Khun Jaeb's pad Thai hasn't changed over the past seven years - it remains one of the best we have ever eaten.

There's no scrimping on ingredients here: vibrant garlic chives, crispy bean sprouts, juicy prawns, egg and tofu are bound together in Khun Jaeb's secret sauce - an alchemist's concoction of tamarind, lime, fish sauce and palm sugar.

And the noodles! Just the right amount, cooked to that perfect chewy texture. We'd return to Koh Lanta just to eat this.

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Eat it at Phad Thai Rock n Roll, 208 moo5 Kantiang Bay T. Lantayai Amphoe Ko Lanta. Open 11am-9pm daily.

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