KEY POINTS:
For three days and nights I stomped through Wellington's streets. I sipped mojito cocktails at Havana, marvelled at counter-culture artworks, and was spirited down back alleys in search of exotic headgear. It was good training for one of the capital's best-known events, the Cuba Street Carnival (www.cubacarnival.org.nz). From Friday for two days the capital's city centre morphs into Habana Vieja and crowds of 100,000 enjoy free music, an outdoor film fiesta, roving theatre, street markets and an illuminated night parade. Still, you must allow some time for shopping and dining. Viva found some great new places and revisited a few old favourites.
WHERE TO SHOP
Estella's Wardrobe
Here's an option for those who whine about having nothing to wear for a special outing - hire a designer outfit and jewellery. Owners Simone Share and Jayna Lala want you to imagine you're riffling through your best friend's wardrobe. The choice is a little better, with the likes of New York's Nicole Miller and Aussie designer Pablo Nevada. Customers can have a one-night stand with a garment, and pay a portion of the asking price, or they can buy.
Where: Cnr Featherston and Waring Taylor Sts.
De Nada
Check out the fashion - including great sexy lingerie for bigger busts - while your boyfriend enjoys the music collection. Owners Nada Matthews and Jo Learmonth have created a cool space where you can also grab a coffee and admire the original artwork.
Where: 25a Marion St.
Madame Fancy Pants
A little gem - well worth the climb up Plimmer Steps. Claire Terry, fine jewellery designer, has exquisite taste; I loved the Katarzynkha handbags. Terry's nana used to call her "little madame" and her mum "fancy pants". We think she's very clever.
Where: Plimmer Steps. While you're there, check out Modern Love and Stand Up Apparel Aotearoa.
Wellington Hatters
Designer Hank Cubitt has an impressive range of hats, all beautifully constructed and displayed. Cubitt may import all the skins and blocks, but the hats are all New Zealand-made. This delightful shop is tucked away in a tiny side street off Lambton Quay, and you can spend hours there inspecting the top hats, colourful trilbys and patchwork tweed cheesecutters.
Where: 9 Woodward St.
Popup
This appears to cater for art dissidents, with its promise of pop surrealism, subversive lowbrow art, street design, pop and counter culture. It has limited-edition prints from artists like Glenn Barr, Kozyndan and DC comics' illustrator James Jean.
Where: 57 Ghuznee St. Other new shops on the block: Basquesse, Good as Gold, Pearl and Soup for recycled designer labels.
THE NIGHTLIFE
Hawthorn Lounge
It's Paris-cum-Vegas, with all the charm and none of the schmaltz. Here you can sip a martini and play a round at the poker table - or sink into a comfy leather couch by the fire and have a game of chess. You half expect Sinatra to stroll in.
Where: 82 Tory St.
Mighty Mighty
The menus are in old record covers, and the furnishings are unashamedly kitsch, but Mighty Mighty is a great place to party. Check out the live acts.
Where: Level 1, 104 Cuba St.
Matterhorn
It's the peak of dining pleasure, with a menu by head chef Nick Huffman (ex Huka Lodge). It won best bar last year.
Where: 106 Cuba St.
Havana
It may be squeezed between two towering office blocks, but Havana has embraced the Cuban spirit. Excellent line-up of local DJs and cocktails.
The best place to party late.
Where: 32a Wigan St.
DINING OUT
The capital is full of exciting places to dine, with a host of award-winning chefs plating up. There's Logan Brown, Maria Pia Trattoria, Martin Bosley's Yacht Club Restaurant, Shed 5 and that's just for starters. Here are two new additions to the dining scene.
The Ambeli
Owner Shae Moleta insists we're really dining in his house. Indeed, there are portraits of his family on the wall, a cosy fireplace and only a handful of tables. Our host makes the perfect dining companion. His conversation ranges from the delights of the crispy duck to how his uncle came to be photographed with a pig. The menu is divine, the wine list intriguing, the service impeccable.
Where: 18 Majoribanks St.
St John's Heineken Hotel
Great place to relax with a beer by the waterfront. Splendid art deco building that belies its quirky past: a St John's ambulance centre in the 20s and semi-wild music venue in the 70s. It's now a favourite watering-hole for office workers.
Where: 5 Cable St.
THE CAFES
Floridita's
It has European charm and a brilliant menu, with free-range eggs, organic milk and home-grown bacon. Still, they're not so virtuous if they're suggesting a Bloody Mary morning-pick-me-up. Lovely sweet treats and great coffee.
Where: 161 Cuba St.
Maranui Cafe
It may occupy the top floor of a surf lifesaving club and you have to go through the pretence of signing up as a member. But feel no pressure to abandon your flat white and scrummy cake to administer mouth to mouth.
Just relax and enjoy the quirky club memorabilia and stunning sea views.
Where: 7 Lyall Parade, Lyall Bay.
Shoc Chocolaterie and Espresso Bar
A chocolate blind tasting is a delight. Who'd ever think strawberry and black pepper could be so divine? Sample the hot chocolate drinks while you're there.
Where: 11 Tory St.
Also recommended: Sweet Mother's Kitchen, Ernesto, Mojo and Simply Paris.
