C.A.C. Bar, Mt Eden

The Normanby Rd site of the old Colonial Ammunition Company is now filled with apartments, with two redeeming features: the historic shot tower and the freshly converted 1922 bluestone building that is now C.A.C. Bar and Eatery.

Its conversion is the brainchild of Anthony Joseph and Megan Watson, the entrepreneurial couple who brought us the Chop House in Albany.

The bones of this superb wood and stone building are juxtaposed with a new, red-lit central staircase, which leads to a mezzanine floor. The stairs are flanked by a sleek bar to the left and open galley kitchen to the right.

A cavernous room that used to smell of engine oil and metal is now ready for celebration four nights a week, with cocktails, wine and raucous laughter.

The appeal of this building drew me back twice in the first 10 days of opening, having witnessed its transfor-mation on infrequent trips to my gym.

An exposed stainless steel kitchen, with benches piled high with fresh baguettes, salad vegetables and lemons seemed to be at one within this transformed shell. Upstairs, the floors are scattered with rugs, and marble-topped tables have an eclectic range of chairs, bench seats and couches pulled close. The original 3m-high garage-front doors are now two generous communal table tops, complete with notches where the locks used to be.

More of a bar that serves small plates of flavoursome food to have with drinks than a restaurant in the true sense, it's going through that "new encounters" period that all just-opened establishments grow through.

The food has mostly Mediterranean leanings and you'll need to order about three to four plates per couple.

I called in after work with Paul for a few glasses of Burnt Spur Pinot Gris 2004 from Martinborough and tasting plates of risotto balls with sundried tomato and molten mozzarella in the centre; veal and pork meatballs served with a dollop of lemony labna; and shrimp with leeks softened in white wine, feta and chilli.

Our most recent visit was with friends Peter and Sally. We were pleased with the baked goat's cheese — a generous slice, with olives and rosemary; the crispy squid salad with fresh lemon, Italian parsley, dates and walnuts (though a little oily and needing a better source of fresh walnuts), the risotto balls and the slices of medium-rare beef steak with salsa verde. The boys were fond of the chicken special, cooked with mushrooms, tomatoes, pearl onions and red capsicum, but it wasn't for Sal.

They have a thing at C.A.C. for balls, even the parmesan fritters appeared surprisingly round and a tad dry, as did the meatballs.

David said he'd prefer a traditional a la carte menu but would use C.A.C. to stop for a drink. Our friends were impressed with the restoration and fit-out. We thought that the food was okay on five out of the eight tasting plates we tried, but we are a fussy lot.

The service is friendly and efficient, although staff do need to provide side plates and servers before the food arrives.

I like the feel of this place, in fact I may just park at the gym, flag the circuit and come straight here. Start with a C.A.C. cocktail such as the delicious Comfortably Loaded — 42 Below feijoa vodka and banana liqueur, shaken with pineapple and cranberry juice, or do as the Brazilian cariocas do and order summer in the form a Caipirinha. Ask Logan for help with the wine list, and let the festive season begin.

OUR MEAL: $255.60 for four (including two cocktails, four glasses and one bottle of wine); plates $8-$15; cheese $10-$12; desserts $9

OUR WINES: Wines by the glass $8.90-$16.90; by the bottle $36-$199

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