Building great vintages

2007 Pyramid Valley Howell Cabernet Franc. Photo / Steven McNicholl

"I came to wine late and it became my passion and obsession and took over my life," says Mike Weersing, who is on a fast trajectory to becoming one of New Zealand's most respected and revered winemakers. He and wife Claudia have already established cult status with their sublime Pyramid Valley label.

The 2ha vineyard at Waikari, North Canterbury, is their home base, planted mainly with pinot noir and chardonnay. Then there is the Pyramid Valley Vineyards Growers Collection - Weersing leases part of other growers' vineyards and develops wines to his exacting standards. To date his reach extends to Marlborough and Central Otago.

Sadly, a truly stunning gewurztraminer from Hawkes Bay will not be repeated because of a vine-pulling act of madness. Weersing enjoyed a great start to winemaking, having worked at esteemed vineyards - Neudorf in Nelson and Marlborough's TerraVin - and is from the "less is more" school of winemaking.

"Wine, ultimately, should just be fermented grape juice. We seem to have got away from that in being too clever. It ought to be a natural product; not industrialised so it finishes up looking like water. Wine has to be more than delicious, it has to be authentic."

At a winemakers' dinner recently, I tried an array of Weersing's wares. Of special mention: 2007 Riverbrook Marlborough Riesling - medium style finishing dry, wonderful balance, weight and minerality - and 2007 Eaton Family (Marlborough) Pinot Noir which had flavours of truffles, a hint of mint and gentle sweetish aftertaste. All class.

"Our wines are less obviously fruit driven and more about texture," says Weersing. "Ultimately, wine for me is about architecture."

He may well turn out to be New Zealand's Frank Lloyd Wright of winemaking.

Recommended

2007 Pyramid Valley Kerner Pinot Blanc
Ace chef Peter Gordon paired this with crab ravioli, laksa veloute, baby squid and fried shallots. Flavours of nutmeg, cashew nut and dried herbs.
Price: about $35

2007 Pyramid Valley Howell Cabernet Franc
Hawkes Bay grapes off aged vines. Usual Weersing style - unfiltered, unrefined. Gutsy, forward fruit style with piercing spice and lovely floral nose. Great length.
Price: $65