Bowmans, Mt Eden

Carlos and Angie Atkinson at Bowmans where many will be on the lookout for their innovations. Picture / Carolyn Robertson

Herald rating * * * 1/2

Under new ownership, read the blackboard on the footpath. "Come on in and try the new Bowmans," it continued, and the Three Musketeers have never been known to bypass that sort of invitation, especially as we've spent a number of pleasant evenings in the previous incarnation. Dick, Stuart and I bowled in to meet the new patrons.

History lesson: on Mt Eden Rd there was Chez Daniel, and Richard and Charmaine Lewis begat Bowmans there nine years ago, and verily they did win acclaim and many awards.

Most of these were lettered Best Suburban Restaurant, which sounded patronising, as though it didn't qualify as a good, better or best restaurant unless the address ended in Ponsonby or Parnell.

Earlier this year Carlos and Angie Atkinson went in for dinner. He'd been in the kitchen when Lewis opened. In the intervening decade Carlos was head chef at Wild Fire and Cin Cin. Angie had been out front at Wild Fire, St Tropez and Cibo.

Carlos and Angie had been in Wanaka, running Ambrosia, their own restaurant, for a couple of years. Angie takes up the story: "We mentioned we were looking for another restaurant, one thing led to another and here we are. We have been in Bowmans since October 10 and have completely changed the menu and wine list, and are slowly making changes to the decor."

It looked lighter. She pointed out they'd replaced the heavy curtains with frosted windows. They will be painting soon.

"Bowmans has always had the reputation of being a great suburban restaurant, which we are hoping to live up to and also make our own mark by making it a bit more modern and appealing to a wider market."

By jove, Angie, you'll be struggling with the last bit. Many city restaurants would be happy with the number of punters wanting tables on an early weekday evening. Agree about the "bit more modern" comment, though.

Bowmans had become a little tired and a little too ... mmm, fussy? Carlos has lightened the menu from French classics. Perhaps he needs a season to re-acquaint himself with Auckland's tastes du jour: Dick and I wondered why the memory of our wild rabbit risotto was the aroma of truffle oil. We excused Stuart from this discussion. He was immersed in oysters Kilpatrick.

Carlos has the nous to know that it's better to do a few things well than try to be all things to all menus, so he limits the main courses. The Hawkes Bay lamb plate caught my eye: a macadamia-crusted rack with truffle mash, rump with grilled artichokes and kofta (read: meatball) with wild mushroom ragu, gently cooked and a much better idea than the usual wodge of rump or unimaginative cutlet.

Dick asked for the largest sirloin in the house, cooked medium rare. But there's not a lot you can say about steak and mash so we'll move right along to Stuart's pork fillet, rubbed with five spices. Again, not a challenging dish, but Carlos' cooking lifted it above the average.

We had cheese and it was good. We had wine to see if the new owners had kept the cellar to the previous management's standards. They have pared back the list; no bad thing, but have maintained a decent balance between the hemispheres. It's a long way from Gisborne to Gigondas, but they have both.

Bowmans has changed hands and tack. The new folk know what they're doing, and we'll watch the innovations with interest. Suspect that Mt Eden folk will, too.

Almost Forgot.  Stuart pointed out that everyone in this column has a nickname (and how does he know that a previous guest was not christened Bridget?) and he wanted to be known as the Babe Magnet. So wherever I've written Stuart above, just cut-and-paste Babe Magnet, if you wouldn't mind.

Address: 579 Mt Eden Rd
Phone: (09) 638 9676
Open: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday, from 5.30pm
Owners: Carlos and Angie Atkinson
Head chef: Carlos Atkinson
Cuisine: Contemporary New Zealand
From the menu: Tea-smoked snapper salad, pickled ginger, mizuna, radish, confit tomatoes $16
Horopito-crusted cervena, saffron cabbage, glazed yams, red wine reduction $32
Apple snapps parfait, apple chips, apple fritters $13
Vegatarian: Option on menu
Wine: Good - both old and new worlds represented