Bowmans, Mt Eden

By JENNIFER YEE for canvas

Bowmans combines 80s chic with contemporary style and carries it off fabulously. The restaurant offers a comfy domain for Mt Eden locals but on this wintry night there was a strong contingent of regular diners from across town.

The menu is a clever use of ethnic ingredients borrowed from Middle Eastern and Asian cuisines with seasonal leaves and roots. The touch is light and sympathetic without overshadowing the hero meat, fish or fowl on the plate.

Two vegetarian dishes on the menu are clearly identified with a bold "V" and potatoes come with all mains, at no extra charge.

The chef flirted with us by way of an appetite teaser. Bite-sized morsels of crispy risotto, dusted with some parmesan, were a delicious accompaniment to a celebratory glass of bubbly.

From the specials board, Anna and I started with the ginger squid on a crisp noodle salad. A well-executed combo of flavours — tender squid on top of baby mesclun leaves, garnished with a tumble of beetroot spaghetti. It might have been improved by using finer egg noodles and char-grilling the squid to give more aroma and sizzle. Visually, it got top marks.

David's pan-fried chicken livers nested on baby spinach leaves with smoked pecorino and a crispy wafer of proscuitto were tasty and enjoyable. The livers were a tad overcooked; had they been creamy in the centre and caramelised around the edges, the overall combination of textures and flavours would have been perfect. I'm fussy.

For the main course, Anna selected the special of pan-fried hapuka with truffle mash. The fish was perfectly cooked, tinged golden on the outside with succulent, moist flesh. The presentation was simple and unpretentious. Delicious.

My barbecued duck breast was marinated and gently scented with vanilla and cassis, and served with pomegranate molasses — sweet and tart helping to cut the richness of the duck. I had high hopes for the duck but its flavour got a little lost. Duck breast should be cooked pink and juicy, with crispy skin and no apparent layer of fat under the skin. This breast was slightly overcooked, though not dry. Scoring the skin would have rendered some of the fat. The orange and crisp-noodle salad came wrapped in a circle of nori. Duck with orange is a classic marriage but I couldn't get my head around the three cuisines on the plate; though creative, the nori was chewy by the time I ate the salad.

David chose the roast lamb rump coated in spicy dukka. This was declared "great!" accompanied with the truffle oil mash, spinach and pickled spiced beetroot (not a "confit" as stated on the menu).

Wine matches are well considered and available by the glass or bottle. A refreshing Montana Riesling 2000 worked well with our starters and the Greenhough Hope Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001 from Nelson complemented our mains, especially the duck.

We decided to share the "three chocolate creme brulee". This was served in a parfait glass with a port and berryfruit compote, and delectable caramelised orange zest alongside. The feathered creme anglais and berry couli decoration was a definite retro 80s touch. But a 5/5 pud.

The understated decor — framed prints on creamy walls, wooden furniture, white, starched tablecloths and napery, is unobtrusive enough to allow the food to shine. Toilets — clean and functional. We'll be back.


Bowmans, 597 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden (cnr of Kingsview Rd), ph (09) 638-9676

OUR MEAL: $230 for 3. Starters $15.90-$17.90; light meals $17.90-$22.90; mains $19.90-$32.90; desserts $10.90-$12.90

WINES: by the glass $5.90-$14.90; by the bottle $21.90-$79.90 (includes sparkling wines)

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.