KEY POINTS:
Distance is supposed to lend enchantment to the view. But if that were true, the meals this year of which I would have the happiest memories would have all been in the first quarter. Yet, having trawled three times through the back files, I find that the most impressive experiences are much more recent.
Maybe I'm getting smarter at picking good places - although I have eaten enough lousy meals in the past few months to make that theory suspect.
Hilariously, I excoriated one in between the time that some of the management wallahs from this organisation had booked there and the time that they dined. They said the food was nauseatingly bad, but they were not sure whether to compliment me on my accurate assessment or suspect that the proprietors were exacting revenge on the organisation.
A restaurateur of French origin emailed me a few months back when he discovered that a review of his place was pending. "You have high standards," he wrote, a little apprehensively. "Vous appellez un chat un chat." The French, which means "you call a cat a cat", is the equivalent of the English expression involving spades, which I took as a compliment.
But I am not so sure about the first part because I don't think my standards are particularly high. My expectations are just that the food will be at least as good as I can cook myself, and will be prepared and served with care and attention; the service will be courteous without being obsequious, and attentive without being smothering; and that it will be an experience to remember (particularly if the bill is going to be about $200 for two) and created by people who like what they are doing.
So here, in no particular order, are the best I tried in 2007:
Merediths, 365 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden, ph 623 3140
Michael Meredith's eatery would be worthy of Paris, London and New York. Dishes of mastery, full of improbable ideas that worked spectacularly well, served in a tastefully understated small room. Not incidentally, great value for money.
Bellota, 91 Federal St, City, ph 363 6301
I was underwhelmed by Peter Gordon's Dine, but this Antipodean take on a tapas bar is a great experience for anything from a snack to an eat-all-night extravaganza.
Prime Bistro, 188 Quay St, ph 357 0188
You have to put up with the view of that ugly building across the road, but this is the best lunch in town - classy food without fuss, and a fine place to spend the afternoon if you decide not to go back to work.
Clooney, 33 Sale St, City, ph 358 1702
I wasn't much taken with the fringed curtains, which recalled a sci-fi bordello, but that was the best piece of lamb I've ever eaten and the desserts were to die for.
Antoines, 333 Parnell Rd, ph 379 8756
The most enduring fine-dining restaurant in town still delivers the goods and that "nostalgia menu" is irresistible.
Honourable mention:
Grand Park, Alexandra Park, ph 638 6998
Serious yum cha on a grand scale (the à la carte in the evenings looks pretty good too).
O Sarracino, 3-5 Mt Eden Rd, ph 309 3740
I've heard good and bad reports of this place, but my experience was fabulous: Neapolitan food with great pasta sauces and a small but tantalising wine list.
Bunga Raya, 2/3062 Great North Rd, ph 827 8666
Like the bookshop, hard to find but worth the effort. A Malaysian place that Malaysians flock to. Ludicrously cheap and excellent.
Blowfish Sushi, 144 Parnell Rd, ph 357 3848;
Gion, 197 Parnell Rd, ph 379 3344
Both of these prove proves that there is more to Japanese food than you may have dreamed of. You'll find them inventive, exotic and - if strikingly different in aesthetic style - consummately Japanese.
Ultra Deli Cafe and Bar, 275 Onehunga Mall, ph 636 0630
They open for dinner only on Wednesday nights when they play a cheesy movie. But the food is honest, hearty and filling.
Year's delightful surprise:
Mexican Specialities, 92 Marua Rd, Ellerslie, ph 580 2497
The charming José Carlos and Maria de la Macorra run a small but perfect eatery, open lunchtime Thursday to Saturday only. It caused me to rethink Mexican food. It will do the same for you too.
- Detours, HoS
