Best in show

Industry stalwart John Belsham fell into winemaking while on hie European OE. Photo / Jim Tannock

John Belsham wasn't looking for a career in winemaking. It found him while he was holidaying in one of the world's tastiest places - Bordeaux, France.

The year was 1977. Belsham, his backpack and a few friends wound up in Bordeaux on their European travels, and he applied for seasonal work during the vintage at Chateau Saturnin.

He was a hit, thanks in part to his strong understanding of science. And this small winery in the Medoc became Belsham's training ground for the next five years, setting up a career that has now spanned 35 years. Today Belsham is owner, founder and chief winemaker of Foxes Island Wines. He is also the wine panel chair for Cuisine magazine's wine tastings, wine consultant to Air New Zealand, chair of the New Zealand Screwcap Initiative, consultant chief winemaker for Indevin and on the board of Pinot Noir New Zealand 2010.

In short, his credentials make him a sought-after wine judge in Australasia. Despite having both feet firmly planted in the wine industry, he is, he insists, a strong champion of the wine consumer.

"Wine drinkers shouldn't be in the slightest bit afraid of judging the judges," Belsham says. "If you drink wine and don't agree with a medal being on a certain bottle, we need to know."

How did you start wine judging?

"About 20 years ago I was invited to be a steward for the Air New Zealand Wine Awards, then I applied to a selection process in 1987 and was selected as an associate judge, which led to being a senior, then a leader and chair positions followed."

What's the most enjoyable judging?

"I'm particularly enjoying judging with Cuisine. One panel judges one wine style over two to three days, allowing more time and depth than a lot of judging. I also enjoyed judging in Australia - it's out of my comfort zone."

What's the biggest reward?

"It's very uplifting competing with a team because there's a collegial spirit. It takes you beyond your individual level into a collective level of ability."

And the biggest compromise?

"Ultimately a decision is required. Where a panel is concerned, sometimes there has to be an averaging of opinion. On the flip side, where there is a quality panel, excellent wines have an increased chance of recognition."

What have been your highlights?

"One was at an Easter Show, awarding a number of gold medals to syrah in about 2002 or 2003, which was the beginning of the recognition of New Zealand syrah. And in the very early years, it was rewarding to be involved in the recognition of New Zealand sauvignon blanc."

What's been the biggest change?

"The transition from the majority of wines being under cork to, within three years, most under screwcap. That was dramatic. We went from constantly rejigging wines because of cork taint to suddenly being able to focus purely on quality because cork taint barely existed."

What changes would you like to see?

"I'd like to see us move away from the clinical deconstruction of wines. It's very frustrating to know wines that receive four stars have warranted as much discussion as others in the same tasting that have received five or a gold medal. I'd like to publish the discussions that take place around those wines."