Bella, Ponsonby

Bella's dolce misto - perfect for sharing once the guilt has passed.

Herald rating: * * * *

Choosing dessert is usually a bit of a minefield. For women, in particular, there is the "no, I shouldn't" ritual. Pot-bellied men, unaccountably convinced they are still hunky despite all evidence to the contrary, seem less anguished.

Once the guilt barrier has been passed there is the agony of what to have, traditionally resolved by the sharing solution. Bella has taken this to its logical conclusion with the dolce misto, a sparkling collection which includes Campari jelly, a gelato, a sorbet, a creme caramel, a brutally rich chocolate tart, some prunes, and a couple of others I have forgotten, topped with a vivid espresso and an aromatic amaretto. All the components were first class and the whole was one of the highlights of an evening in which the food was of a high standard.

The too-many-calories hurdle, in fact, was not as high as usual because the helpings of the other courses tend to the dainty. This is Italian cooking at the high art end of the spectrum rather than peasant tucker, more for nibbling before a visit to the Borghese Gallery than for heading to the derby game between AS Roma and Lazio. Perhaps the attractive range of pastas or pizzas takes on the heavier duty demands.

My first course of stuffed baby squid was less baby and more embryo. The stuffing of prawn and chilli and garlic, admittedly delicious, might have been administered by hypodermic and the prosciutto was little more than a hint. The goats cheese souffle was well received and the chicken liver parfait was elegantly served, rather more refined, for instance, than the pungent version dished up by a typical Jewish mother of my acquaintance.

Our mains were stylish without lingering too solidly in the memory. My slow roast pork belly, a nice blend of the crisp and the tender, came with a little potato and sage tart and accompanied by two cherry-sized roast apples, a pretty and piquant touch. Our vegetarian's eggplant parmigiana was welcomed with approval and our third choice, the fish of the day, hapuku fillet came with a sweet pepperonata and a little prawn pasta. Unusually we felt the need to bulk up a little and added a plate of beans, al dente but not raw.

From a reasonable wine list we went for an Italian option, the Danzante Pinot Grigio 2003. I'm not sure I'd call it distinguished but the very different style does make it a refreshing change from the New Zealand approach. The dessert deserved and received, from one of us anyway, the compliment of a rather good Hawkes Bay Noble Semillon 2000.

Bella is something of a class act and one is not looking for fast food but the service could benefit from a little less concentration on charm and a bit more efficiency. Patience is a virtue, I know, but ours became tested as the gap between courses became unduly prolonged on a night which was not that busy. Oddly enough our guest had suffered badly from this time-stretching approach of Bella's some years ago under a different regime. Perhaps it comes with the premises.

Overall: Stylish food, elegantly served in pleasant surroundings. Expect a leisurely evening.
Where: 165 Ponsonby Rd. (09) 360 2656
Our meal:  $210 for three. Three first courses, three mains and a shared dessert platter. One bottle of wine and one glass of dessert wine.
Our wine: By the glass $10 to $22. By the bottle from $38 to $290.