It's easy to guess which decade a look called Sci-chedelic pays homage to, as seen in graphic liner strokes and metallic finishes, including in pastel shades. Liner is less feline, more blunt and undone, picking up on the fashion vibe set by Marc Jacobs choosing Factory Girl Edie Sedgwick as a fashion inspiration last September. Other Andy Warhol-associated touches are "pop" colours, still going strong on lips, and freshly minted in unexpected eye shadow colours, most often a single shade rather than a blend. "One beautiful sheen," was how Amber D described the likes of the copper eye seen at Chloe and the sweep of silver sweep at Issey Miyake.
Navy is a trending shade to experiment with, says Thompson. It suits most people and along with other blue tones and metallics expect it to show up strongly in upcoming makeup collections by M.A.C and other beauty brands. At the Jean-Pierre Braganza show, a bright blue lightning bolt eye came right out of David Bowie's closet and the space age theme was worked into a "flying saucer eye" at Antonio Marras. Outside showy effects, the sci-fi eye avoids looking retro, rather it can be strongly futuristic, especially when twinned with lighter modern makeup formulas. Instead of applying glittery loose pigment with a brush a creamy metallic shadow can be swiped on with a finger.
If you're wondering what the 90s offered trend-wise other than a tried reworking of grunge, then think boy brows which are still going strong and the reappearance of sun-kissed skin. Icky eye shades also owe something to the era, picking up on the khaki, purplish, sepia or taupe shades in the shadowed areas of the face. To make this look work, Amber D says, "you still need to bring the beauty out". Try this by blending a skin-toned shadow into the area fringed by the lower lash line for a subtle reworking of the smoky eye. Keep lips a pretty shade, with a hint of pink or peach rather than anything too brown or beige.
Back to that all-important skin. Amber D advises that combining skincare with makeup is the key to achieving a perfectly now look. Start with well-hydrated skin, as little foundation as needed and then try a touch of moisturiser (or M.A.C's Strobe cream, soon to come in a golden elixir) for a balmy finish.
- VIVA