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Home / Lifestyle

Beauty: Through the looking glass

By Janetta Mackay
NZ Herald·
28 Jun, 2011 10:00 PM4 mins to read

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'When it comes to eye makeup and glasses, I believe in keeping things simple.' - Bobbi Brown. Photo / Supplied

'When it comes to eye makeup and glasses, I believe in keeping things simple.' - Bobbi Brown. Photo / Supplied

Get it right so goggle eyes look gorgeous.

The other day I caught a quick reflection of myself with smudgy eye makeup, made all the more obvious magnified through my reading glasses.

Although I still manage to apply my makeup without glasses, I find I'm increasingly wearing them during the day, but until catching myself panda-eyed I'd never
given much thought to how glasses highlight any wonky handiwork.

Thankfully, leading makeup artist Bobbi Brown has, and today we draw on her advice for applying flattering eye makeup so you too don't make a spectacle of yourself.

"When it comes to eye makeup and glasses, I believe in keeping things simple," says Brown.

"It's not about piling on more makeup - it's about using the right makeup and techniques."

Brown, who often wears bold black frames, but also favours tortoiseshell, has brought out the limited edition Tortoise Shell makeup collection in neutral colours designed to work well with glasses.

With tortoiseshell one of the strongest trends in both sunglasses and spectacles, it's a timely combination of complementary colours.

The collection includes an eye palette designed for darker complexions and another for fairer skins, but both containing a range of gold and brown shades, including shimmers.

You'll find these sorts of shades across a range of makeup brands, allowing you to adapt her advice to your budget.

To balance fail-safe warmer gold and brown tones on the eyes, Bobbi Brown recommends soft nudes on the cheeks and lip.

And I recommend getting a magnifying mirror to help out with your morning makeup. Don't forget the occasional check during the day to ensure what others see is what you really had in your mind's eye.

Top tips

Less is definitely more: Wearing glasses draws attention to your eyes, so keep your eye makeup simple, says Bobbi Brown. Stick to neutral shades and save the bold colours for your lips. Don't forget corrector and concealer - a must for all women, but especially if you're wearing glasses.

Eyeliner is essential: Adjusting liner thickness is important when you're wearing glasses - if your frames are thick, apply a thicker line to the upper lash line so that eyes stand out. If your frames are thinner, a softer line works well.

Make sure the brows are defined: Eyeglass frames draw attention to the brows, so be sure to keep your arches well groomed. Pluck or trim any straggly hairs, and fill in holes or spare spots with a brow pencil or powder shadow.

If your prescription makes your eyes look bigger: Use a light hand, and be sure to blend everything carefully - the last thing you want is to magnify any mistakes. For shadows, go with neutral shades. (A little sparkle doesn't hurt). Liner should be delicate and thin, with one coat of mascara to open up the eyes.

If your prescription makes your eyes look smaller: Be sure to line your eyes all the way around. Use a liner that is darker than your natural eye colour to create contrast, which will help define the eyes. Finish with two coats of mascara for a refreshed look.

Eyes open

Tortoiseshell frames can be found to suit most colourings because as well as mottled browns, they come in variations ranging from cooler, taupe tones through to almost mahogany shades. Retro-style frames tend to be heavier, but there are a plenty of lighter weight options out there, including combinations with metal arms and nose pads.

Tortoise shell is a traditional material to make frames from - as is animal horn, hence the name horn-rimmed glasses - but plastic has long been the material of choice, manufactured to give it a multi-toned appearance. Although tortoiseshell frames have had their fashion ups and downs, they're a true classic so will never really go out of style.

Choose from the "bookish" look of the 1920s and 1930s, repopularised by Harry Potter, or opt for the sort of heavy statement frames worn in the 1950s by Buddy Holly and still a favourite of rockers; the current revival sees both retro-styles and clean professional lines in vogue.

Wear it your way: Ralph Lauren frames, $269; Ray-Ban, $299; Dolce & Gabbana $389; Versace $479. (Frames from a selection at OPSM, for stockist details ph 0800 696 776.)

Discover more

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