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Home / Lifestyle

Beauty: Fingers, toes, anything goes

By Janetta Mackay
NZ Herald·
14 May, 2010 04:00 PM6 mins to read

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Essie Nail Colour in Bright Tights $23.90, Zoya Ultra Glitter in Nova $20, Orly Foil FX in Rage $22.95. Photo / Babiche Martens

Essie Nail Colour in Bright Tights $23.90, Zoya Ultra Glitter in Nova $20, Orly Foil FX in Rage $22.95. Photo / Babiche Martens

Choosing a colour is just one of the ways to make your nails look their best.

Fashion, much as it pretends otherwise, is all about keeping up with ever-changing rules - or drawing up your own - but one area where this barely applies is nail colour. Sure there are trends, but it's pretty much anything goes for fingers and toes.

Concepts that black is emo
and red can be a tad tarty have long since been wiped away. Shades once not envisaged for nails like khaki, donkey brown and grey are having a winter moment. Midnight blue, glitter, neon bright, metallic, frog green, it's all out there, with purply berry tones making a comeback and soft pastel washes a popular alternative to nudes.

The prevalence of nail bars and the regular introduction of new colour ranges means the candy store approach will continue, though practicality means paler finishes are here to stay given that any chips are less likely to show.

Nails have now become a talking point from the runway too, with prestige fashion houses debuting their standout seasonal colours alongside their clothes.

A couple of seasons ago the Paris debut of Chanel's Jade polish caused waiting lists.

This season Chanel opted for beige-based shades, while at Yves Saint Laurent it was mauve.

You're best to select colours that suit your personal style and skin tone. (Check out opi.com for its Try on This Colour feature, which lets you adjust the on-screen hand to match your skin tone and then select different shades to see how they look).

Nbar co-owner Tracey Woolner advises that some polishes, especially darker ones, can be unflattering. "The wrong colour polish can make your hands look very aged and washed out."

She says women of all ages are generally "way more adventurous" these days, but while it's good to acknowledge trends, it's best to work with what suits. "When you like the colour you have confidence."

It's also "cool to clash" hand and feet polish, she says.

Brides, of course, tend to the classic, but French manicures have been largely replaced by nudes and pale pink shades, with some brides now opting for delicate pastel colours like mauve, lilac, petal pinks and even softest aqua-blue.

There's a lot to look out for in nail land. O.P.I recently warned that some unscrupulous nail bars were decanting Chinese cheapie polishes into O.P.I bottles. There have also been cautions about toxic chemicals, poor hygiene practice at some nail bars and the damaging removal of acrylic nails by some providers. The best polishes are formaldehyde-, toluene- and DPB-free.

British manicurist Leighton Denny recommends rolling polish bottles in your hands before use, rather than shaking them as this causes small air bubbles to form which can be transferred to nails, giving an uneven finish to your paint job.

Fix a little chip in polish between paints by softening the jagged edges with a dab of remover, then carefully apply colour to the chipped zone and allow it to dry before painting the whole nail with a coat of polish followed by a top coat.

CARE AND ATTENTION

New Zealanders are finally waking up to not just having the right handbag, shoe and lipstick - it's about the nails and the total grooming, people notice that," says the co-owner of one of this country's first specialty nail bars.

Nbar's Tracey Woolner says discerning women look for more than a quick paint and polish to keep their nails in enviable shape. Regular clients at her Epsom business value advice on nail care and access to quality take-home products.

Nails are best shaped to mirror a client's cuticle area, Woolner believes. The squoval (square-oval) shape still largely prevails. She generally advises a shorter look and says lighter colours on long nails can just "pale away".

Women with acrylics tend to have longer nails, but Woolner works with Biosculpture gel nails which have a more natural look and are good on weak, natural nails. (A set costs $85, with backfills at $55 required fortnightly). Those looking to make the most of their own nails can follow various strengthening treatment regimes, with the American Essie line she carries having ranges that graduate from so-called Millionails to Billionails to Trillionails as condition improves.

Woolner warns that the nail bed is easily damaged, so treat it with care and keep cuticles hydrated. Poor cuticle hygiene is the biggest problem she sees, and she advises regular use of a cuticle oil to soften the area.

The former nurse says nail condition is a good overall indicator of health and diet plays a big part in keeping nails strong. So does avoiding too much time soaking in water and cleaning products, which can lead to flaking.

White flecks on nails are a sign of dehydration (or damage from digging in at the nail bed). Yellowing probably means you've been skipping a base coat under polish. Base and top coat will also make your manicure last longer.

To make the most of your own hands start a care regime at home.

1. QVS Fun Buff mini file $1.50

Big choice of designs for this everyday essential to smooth rough edges and gently shape nails.

2. Leighton Denny Bright & White Nail Brightener $29

Optically correct yellowed nails with this brightening product by applying it over a base coat.

3. Orly Bonder $23.99

Helps lacquer last, thanks to a rubberised base coat providing extra adhesion.

4. Essie Matte About You Matte Finisher $29.80

If you like the matte look then save getting a new set of polishes and use this top coat instead. It turns shiny polish matte, but leaves a smoother feel than many matte colours give. Try painting on matte tips only.

5. QVS Nail and Cuticle Stone $7.99

Ceramic crystals provide the work surface for this little tool which works as a super fine file, a nail smoother or cuticle eraser.

6. Essie Cuticle Pen $35

Handy, non-messy way to care for your cuticles, with the brush-tip pen twisting to dispense a small amount of oil to massage in. Ideal for travel when little bottles of oil can be a liability. Essie's Apricot Cuticle Oil is also recommended. (From Nbar, Epsom)

7. QVS Star Nail Shiner $9.99

Buffing nails improves shine and circulation for a healthier look. Shaped for easy use, though if you prefer there are file-shaped buffers.

Stockists: QVS and Orly from selected pharmacies and Farmers. Orly also has salon stockists, ph 0800 883 434. Essie from selected salons including NBar in Epsom. Bernard Willhelm from Jaime Boutique. Leighton Denny salons, ph 0800 223 288. Revitanail from department stores and pharmacies. Zoya from The Department Store, Takapuna, or online at zoyabeauty.co.nz. Chanel and Lancome from brand counters.

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