Beauty: A brighter future

Skin tone is becoming the new beauty obsession. Photo / Babiche Martens

Once they were called whiteners, now they're brighteners or lighteners, but the aim is less about looking paler than banishing blotchy pigmentation and giving the complexion renewed radiance.

We're talking about a growing category of skincare once largely restricted to Asian markets, where fair, even-toned complexions have long been prized. A year ago I wrote that the category was becoming more common here, catering for both the local Asian population and a growing recognition among all women that blotchy, hyper-pigmented skin can be as ageing as wrinkles. Since then the range of available products has grown markedly.

M.A.C, known particularly for its cosmetics, introduced its Lightful skincare to New Zealand this year, making this the first country outside Asia to carry the range. Shiseido, a world leader in this type of skincare, has just rechristened White Lucent as a brightening rather than a whitening range and added a souped-up serum. Bobbi Brown is bringing in its Brightening line this month, adding to those already available from prestige houses including Estee Lauder (Cyber White), Lancome (Blanc Expert) and Dermalogica's Chroma White collection.

Pigmentation is a particular concern in our climate where sun-damaged skin is much more evident than in northern Europe.

By the 30s and 40s the signs of too much early sun exposure start showing, check out the exposed and often unprotected decolletage, forearms and the backs of hands. Later on, "age spots" loom large on face and hands.

The sun is the main cause of so-called external or extrinsic ageing (as distinct from the inevitable intrinsic ageing), but other factors come into play. Pregnancy, stress, illness and medication can all cause pigmentation to arise.

Appearance medicine, of which laser is particularly effective, can be employed to tackle unwanted pigmentation. I've been impressed with both facial and hand treatments, but deep-seated damage will show through over time, especially if skin is not kept protected from the sun. Topical treatments give less obvious results, but they can gradually reduce the appearance of pigmentation and given that you use moisturisers every day, adding some brightening ingredients to the mix certainly can't hurt.

There's plenty of individual skincare creams and serums that promise to lighten and brighten skin, many containing vitamin C. What makes the actual brightening ranges different is their layered approach, extending across cleansers, toners (usually referred to as softeners in Asia) and moisturisers, and sometimes into special foundations as well. Used with ongoing sun protection, a gradual brightening of skin tone and lightening of pigmentation should result.

1. Shiseido White Lucent Intensive Spot Targeting Serum $180
This beautifully bottled serum takes a two-pronged approach targeting spots and enhancing brightness. It uses vitamin C and a patented complex known as 4MSK that works on the enzyme tyrosinase which causes melanin production. The complex has won Japanese Health Ministry approval as a quasi-drug brightening agent, a step beyond normal cosmetic approvals. The range has eight products, giving users a choice of day and night moisturisers and softeners (toners), priced from $70. A relaxing Tea Rose fragrance is used across the range.

2. M.A.C Lightful Hydro-Charged Moisturizer SPF30 $78
A moisturiser with a light texture and a high sun protection factor is always a find. This has a nice light scent, can act as a primer or mix it with M.A.C Mineralize Foundation for a bright, light coverage. The Lightful range contains vitamin C and green tea extracts and comprises a foaming cleanser, softening lotion, moisturising cream and an essence.

3. Bobbi Brown Brightening Hydrating Lotion $98
Apply this clearing lotion to clean skin before using companion serum, moisturising cream, sunblock and spot corrector. The range draws on vitamin C, glucosamine, caffeine, with hydrating sodium hyaluronate. Sadly, Bobbi's Brightening Powder Compact Foundation has not been brought into the country, but the makeup queen has plenty of other face base options.

4. Lancome Blanc Expert GN-White Age Fight Intense Whitening Spot & Line Eraser $150
As collagen breaks down with age, skin loses elasticity and looks duller, so this cream-style serum contains an anti-yellowing complex said to interfere with the glycation process, which yellows collagen fibre. It also acts on melanin to reduce brown spots, while plumping skin. Contains sunflower and soy extracts. UV Expert SPF30 and SPF50 moisturisers complement the serum.

5. Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector $120
Designed to inhibit and break up pigmentation clusters, this prescription strength serum also gently exfoliates the skin surface, revealing brighter, fresher skin. Tests have benchmarked it against widely used hydroquinone and found it less irritating to skin and Clinique's research about the brightening effect of using a topical antioxidant has been submitted to a scientific journal. Contains plant extracts, vitamin C, glucosamine and salicylic acid. For use across the face twice daily under moisturiser, of which there's a matching product, but it also works in with other Clinique regimes.

6. Za True White Emulsion $19.50
This vitamin C-infused youth range from Shiseido's laboratories brings brightening benefits while also helping reduce the appearance of spots and acne scars. At the price it's well worth a go on younger skins.

7. M.A.C Lightful Ultracharge SPF20 Foundation $55 (plus compact $20)
Silky powder compact foundation with light-diffusing pigments for luminosity and blotting powder to reduce oily shine, making it good for humid climates. Leaves a matte finish that looks fresh not flat. This is M.A.C's top-selling foundation in Japan and it comes in a colour range catering for Asian complexions.

Stockists: Brand counters, M.A.C Lightful only at Smith & Caughey's Queen St store.