Step into the sunset - the rooftop bar at the Auckland city Sudima hotel.
Step into the sunset - the rooftop bar at the Auckland city Sudima hotel.
Bar food has literally hit new heights. Kim Knight takes the elevator to the 10th floor and delivers her verdict.
In their own words: "Look to the beyond … Cocktails. Bites. Sunsets."
First impressions: Why am I wearing a jumper and sneakers? Why don't I own an off-the-shoulder beige silkpantsuit with a key card in the pocket? Why have I spent so many after-work Fridays in questionable pubs with sticky floors and toilet doors that don't close properly? Sunset Bar, at the top of the newish Auckland city Sudima hotel, is a glamorous space with sparkling views of the Waitematā and an outside balcony that faces the Waitākere Ranges. This place has made an effort and so should you.
The neighbourhood: Unless you're staying here, working near here, attending a conference (assuming the Convention Centre will actually open one day?) or buying a bagel, you're probably not going to find this place by accident. It's a couple of streets west of the main CBD - but if you intend to finish your night in Ponsonby at least you won't have negotiate too many red cones en route.
In the kitchen: Executive chef Harmeet Singh Nanda has reportedly collaborated with Samson Stewart and Maximus Perry of Christchurch's 5th Street to produce a snackable menu that doesn't skimp on spice or (unlike the downstairs restaurant East) meat-based proteins. Side note: Cazador Deli stocks 5th Street's addictive chilli peanut condiment. My current household consumption is averaging a jar a week.
The outside deck at the Sudima's Sunset Bar. Photo/Sylvie Whinray
On the floor: It's a bar but there is table service but there is only one paywave transaction per table. Or something like that. To be honest, I lost track. Maybe just set up a tab from the get-go.
The menu: At first glance, you're in bog-standard bar food territory. Just nine items (including a salad and a pudding) with all the usual suspects - sliders, fried chicken, fries, et al. Stand by to have your expectations exceeded ...
Best bite #1: Not so much a single item as a general observation. Sunset knows its sauce. You will want to lick all the plates (but don't, because this is not that pub with the sticky floors). Tangy Clevedon buffalo curd was a great addition to the lamb skewers, but my favourite was the toum. This Lebanese garlic sauce (like a slightly grainier aioli, minus the egg) is served with vegan kofta and if there had been bread on the menu I would have ordered it simply to maximise that sauce.
The carb-on-carb slider you didn't know Auckland was missing, from the menu at Sunset Bar. Photo/Sylvie Whinray
Best bite #2: Just when you think you've seen every slider under the sun, along comes a carb-on-carb creation that sounds like it shouldn't work but seriously does. The little buns were packed with a potato hash cake, creamy feta and plum chutney. Imagine the Auckland-famous Satya dahi puri as a mini burger and you'll get the gist.
On the side: The true measure of a great bar is how they treat the woman who arrives 30 minutes before her workmates who are still stuck to the floor at that pub. "There will be more of us, I promise," I said, commandeering a premium table for six. "No problem at all," said the lovely woman who brought me a Campari-heavy gimlet and a bowl of very good nuts. Set the tone of your evening with this generous mix of pecans, cashews, et al. Sweet, spicy, salty - and considerably more sophisticated than your average pub peanut.
The jury's still out: Does a tiny part of me wish the Sudima had held fast to its vegetarian ethos? Does Auckland really need any more bowls of deep-fried chicken? Yes, said my table, ordering a second helping and also the masala fries. Like the old saying goes, you can't take the journalist out of the pub.
Dessert: At first I questioned the presence of a dessert on a bar menu. And then I imagined myself late at night, lost in that view, sipping cocktails and staring deeply into the soul of a vanilla and cardamom parfait. Sold.
Perfect for: Date nights, late nights and Friday nights when you've made an effort to wear something other than elasticated pants and flat shoes.
We spent: $171 on substantial snacks for six (drinks were extra). Address: Sudima Auckland City, 10th Floor/63-67 Nelson St, Auckland, ph. (09) 399 2367.
Sip the list
by Yvonne Lorkin
Clearly there's someone in charge of the drinks list at Sudima's Sunset Bar who is curious, adventurous and happy to scoop up customers and take them along for a colourful and tasty ride. Craft beer fans will find comfort in Deep Creek, Garage Project, Sawmill, Urbanaut and Morningcider, but don't freak out if you're looking at their wine list online. Their website lists only their bottle prices, however, visit in person and you'll see they have an impressive 24 wines available by the glass, all for between $13 (Meltwater Marlborough sauvignon) and $21 (Moet & Chandon). There's also a handy key detailing whether the wines are organic (O) or natural (N) – and there are LOTS of O's and N's on this list.Try a flute of pet nat from Victoria's Days & Daze, a blend of pinot blanc and sauvignon blanc from Marlborough's La Monella for $16.50 or a Mt Edward gruner veltliner for $16. Funky chardonnays from 144 Islands in the Bay of Islands and Helio in Hawke's Bay can be sipped next to Soave (so-ah-vay) from Veneto and Seresin's Beautiful Chaos syrah and their ridiculously lovely Zosia Rosé. Merlot blends and malbecs galore from the likes of Decibel and Stone Paddock and a delicious grenache-blend from Fond Croze in the Rhone can be chased down with a superlatively sweet Sauternes, which is a deliciously decadent dessert wine from Chateau Villefranche for just $16. So if you're keen to walk on the wild side of wine without giving your wallet grief then Sunset Bar is the place to do it. Top marks, Sunset!
