Auckland jewellers create original and beautiful designs

Lotus ring in 9ct rose gold, $495 by Jasmine Watson and Tusk and fob necklace, $350 by Matt Rawlinson.

Jeweller: Jasmine Watson
From: Royal Jewellery Studio, Kingsland, ph (09) 846 0200

Jasmine Watson's elaborate and romantic jewellery has featured in The Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe.

Watson enjoyed the creative freedom she was given while working on these fantasy films, particularly The Lord of the Rings. "If I had to choose one favourite it would be the butterfly tiara for Arwen (Liv Tyler's character) from the final scenes of The Return of the King. The complex design was based on interwoven butterfly wings."

Watson, who mixes movie work with producing collections for the Royal Jewellery Studio, draws inspiration from Indian jewellery, Asian textiles and wood carving. She often works with rose gold - common in many vintage pieces but rarely used by contemporary jewellers.

"I like the use of natural forms such as flowers and plants and the combinations of unusual and exotic materials like coral, jade and kingfisher feathers. I also admire the elegance and skill of Japanese and Chinese metalwork."

Describe the first piece of jewellery you received?

I was a hippie child so I had lots of Indian bangles that mum put on both my wrists when I was a baby. I wore them until I was about 7 when they got too small and I grudgingly had to take them off. As a child I also had pierced ears and two silver anklets from India.

Have you ever lost jewellery that was of sentimental value?

I lost my mum's turquoise earrings that she had bought back from Afghanistan. When I was about 3 she let me look at them while I was playing on the floor and I somehow managed to push them down between the floorboards, never to be found.

Do you have a favourite piece of personal jewellery?

I have an antique ring that I bought in London. It's 22 carat gold and is a small round flower with very detailed layers of petals - it's very sweet. 


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Jeweller: Matt Rawlinson
From: Bijoux, Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby, ph (09) 360 1332

Matt Rawlinson began crafting jewellery at Bijoux 17 years ago with his dad Kevin. Last year his father semi-retired to Waiheke Island and Matt moved Bijoux to a new location, although still in Ponsonby Rd.

"As the son of a jeweller I actually began threading beads when I was a toddler and took my first order from a craft shop, for copper and silver bangles, when I was 11."

Over the years Rawlinson has been commissioned to make pieces for television, including Hercules, Xena, and Power Rangers, as well as for catwalk shows at New Zealand Fashion Week.

"Each piece of jewellery has a story behind it and every piece in Bijoux has been made from the love of making it. I love my work and get great satisfaction from what I do."

Rawlinson is drawn to indigenous jewellery styles from throughout the world and he also admires the craftsmanship that goes into antiques.

"Those vintage pieces required fine detailed work which takes time and precision and years of experience."

Do you have a specialty?

I do a lot of engagement and wedding rings, which I like as I feel honoured to be asked to make pieces that mean so much to someone.

Jewellery can carry a lot of sentimental value and I've had the privilege to work with clients on some really special pieces, from turning old estate pieces into new contemporary items to making special silver token boxes to hold locks of hair or a baby's first tooth.

Has anyone famous bought your jewellery?

Bono from U2 came in and bought several pieces, Bill Clinton bought an arm-band with greenstone for his daughter, Chelsea, and Greg Johnson and other musicians and actors have bought pieces.

Kathleen from Hi5 wears one of my koru bangles - which my 7-year-old daughter thinks is great.


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Jeweller: Cathrine Clifford
From: The Jewellers Gallery, 883 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden, ph (09) 630 4582

Cathrine Clifford developed a taste for fine jewellery more than 20 years ago while working as a pearl stringer in London at SJ Phillips, where the Queen is among the clientele.

"I handled Faberge boxes, Russian crown jewels and Royal collections. This experience gave me a taste for fine jewellery and has greatly influenced me."

In Australia she honed her skills working for pearl companies and repairing vintage pieces for antique dealers.

She returned to New Zealand in 1988 and later teamed up with another fine jeweller, Robert Stall. Three years ago the couple opened The Jewellers Gallery.

Their loyal clients include famous faces from television, although Clifford is far too discreet to name names.

"I have been in the trade 24 years and have met many famous people but it just wouldn't do to mention them."

If you could make any piece of jewellery you wanted, what would it be?

At the moment I am making a brooch featuring a swan, which is a piece I have wanted to make for some time. It is in 18 carat yellow gold, with a dove grey pearl as the swan's body.

It will have diamond detailing and the swan will be carrying a diamond briolette (a faceted diamond teardrop). It will be in our exhibition at the gallery later this year.

Describe the first piece of jewellery you received?

A red plastic butterfly brooch with sparkles inside the wings. I was 5. It was enormously beautiful to me.

Have you ever lost or broken jewellery that was of sentimental value?

I broke my red plastic butterfly brooch minutes after I got it.

What's the most interesting piece of jewellery you've been asked to make?

We designed and made a very beautiful multi-coloured sapphire and diamond ring set in platinum.

It took 80 hours of labour, plus weeks searching for the right tones of colour to go with the violet-blue centre stone. It was very interesting from a technical point of view because we'd never made one like it before and I've not seen anything similar.