Articus, Auckland City

By PHOEBE FALCONER for canvas

Articus has been in Symonds St forever, or so it seems.

Actually, it's only 12 years or so, which possibly qualifies as forever in cafe terms.

It is embedded in a row of semi-related businesses at the upper end of Symonds St, almost opposite the end of Khyber Pass Rd. Across the street is the upmarket French Cafe, next door is coffee-house Altezano, and along a bit the other way are Cafe 223 and the Edinburgh Castle tavern. Interesting, if not exactly salubrious surroundings, with foot traffic to match.

The interior of the cafe is original, all high ceilings and tongue-and-groove walls. The space comprises two rooms, the second containing comfortable-looking sofas and armchairs, as well as dining furniture.

We decided to sit outside because, even though Symonds St is busy on a Saturday morning, the noise is not too intrusive, and there is a glimpse of Rangitoto between the buildings shooting up across the way.

We were warned that Bill's corn fritters with bacon and sour cream ($11) might take a little while. They had been in great demand that morning and the chef needed to whip up a new batch of batter.

No problem there. Bill grabbed a mag from the well-stocked rack and I just enjoyed my coffee as we waited. Articus offers the usual cafe brunch fare, including the big Kiwi breakfast ($12.50) and a vegetarian version for $8, which was tempting.

The corn fritters arrived after 20 minutes, and were thin and nearly crisp, sandwiched with bacon and with a good dollop of sour cream. The drizzle of sweet chili sauce over the stack was so heavy it was almost rain and would have ruined the plate for those averse to the stuff. It didn't slow Bill down, though.

My Eggs Benedict came with bacon ($12), but the dish also was offered with salmon ($12.50) or as a vegetarian option ($11), with a choice of bagel or muffin.

The hollandaise sauce was excellent. Neither meal required additional seasoning, which was just as well as the usual condiments were not in evidence.

Articus achieves what it sets out to do: good food and good service at a good price. It's worth a visit.

Hours: 7am to 4.30pm weekdays, 8am to 2pm Saturday, closed Sunday.

Service: Charming

Ambience: Casual.

Parking: Fine on Saturdays, problematic on weekdays.


* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.