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Home / Lifestyle

Age-old wisdom

By Janetta Mackay
NZ Herald·
7 Mar, 2009 03:00 PM10 mins to read

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Priori Idebenone supplement. Photo / Babiche Martens

Priori Idebenone supplement. Photo / Babiche Martens

The old advertising line, "Love the Skin You're In", may sound easier said than done when you look in the mirror some mornings. But the trick to enjoying your best possible complexion is caring for what you've got and minimising the effects of skin damage and ageing.

A healthy glowing
skin comes as much from within as from what you slap on top, so do eat well, sleep enough, hydrate with plenty of water, exercise for good blood circulation and general well-being and try to minimise stresses. After that, it's time to take stock of what else you can do to thumb your nose at the inevitability of ageing.

Excessive sun exposure does more to accelerate skin damage than any other factor - even natural ageing itself - as evidenced by prematurely wrinkled prunes. Using a sunscreen daily and avoiding direct high sun will take years off the age of your skin over time.

Advances in skincare and appearance medicine also mean it is possible if not to turn back, then at least stall the clock. Growing understanding of the part antioxidants play in retarding skin degradation and how the power of Vitamin A and C and the goodness of active botanical ingredients can be harnessed is making treatments more targeted and effective.

If you think topical treatments are only skin deep, then it depends what layer and what treatment you're talking about. It is possible for certain ingredients in potent serums and creams to act beyond the surface layer.

Lasers and other salon treatments are capable of stimulating collagen production, which slows with age, and thus such treatments can help the skin work against its own ageing inclinations.

A trend to watch for will be ingestible skincare, whereby pills are added to potions in the bathroom cabinet. Already, the worth of certain fish and plant oils are recognised, but an early example of the next step is Priori's Idebenone capsules ($80), which deliver an effective antioxidant that fights skin ageing from within. It's already in use in creams such as Elizabeth Arden's Prevage. They're not cheap options, so won't be for everyone, but they're at the forefront of a new frontier.

Then there's also modern makeup, which better reflects light than earlier formulations. So get into the habit of using concealer to cover dark circles and redness and check out some new foundations and powders for the finishing touch to a better-looking skin.

Teens

Your young firm skin may be troubled by hormonal- (or diet-) induced breakouts and oiliness, but may well be just peachy.

Cleansing and exfoliating (a scrub in the shower) are the key to care and now is the time to get into the habit of using sunscreen by day and taking off makeup by night (wipes are handy, and like scrubs you can get inexpensive ones from supermarkets from the likes of Neutrogena, Garnier and Johnson's).

Avoid heavy pore-clogging creams and don't clog your pores from within by eating too much greasy food. Watch that you don't use harsh toners that can be drying. Seek professional help for bad acne or skin sensitivities like eczema, there's much that can be done to help clear these problems up.

Your makeup needs can be limited to a sunscreen that lightly moisturises and a lip balm (try subtly tinted ones for colour on your skin and lips).

Product pick

Garnier Pure 3 in 1 Wash, Scrub & Mask $12.49 Best for oily or combination skin, this shower friendly daily super wash will help keep blemishes at bay. Leave it on longer every few days to allow the clay to draw forth impurities. Our tester liked the fresh smell and all-in-one aspect.

20s

Your skin should be at its most supple, and resilient best. Though structurally sound, ageing is under way, mostly not visible yet, but in 10 or 20 years you may see photo-ageing caused now show up in blotchy pigmentation from too much unprotected sun exposure.

To stay glowing and firm as long as possible make sure you protect from the sun. Use a light moisturiser and cleanse and exfoliate gently.

Establish good skincare routines (ranges such as Clinique's 3-step programme are ideal as are simple regimes from the likes of the Body Shop and newcomer Za), but spend your money on makeup as your priorities will swap later. By your late 20s you may feel the need for more moisture (especially at nights) and see the beginnings of tiny wrinkles, but don't overdose yet on heavy creams.

Skincare experts suggest this is a good time to start having regular facials, superficial peels and skin-clearing microdermabrasion (and to continue these as a way of encouraging cell turnover which slows with time). It's also a good time to consider IPL laser removal of any troubling facial hair to save a lifetime of manual removal and get your money's worth from the initial treatment cost.

Product pick

LeWinn's Pure Essence cleanser $34.90. This special range for young skins is the ideal introduction to simple care routines from a good Australian brand with options for all ages. Our tester found that her skin felt smooth and clear while using the range, including the light day & night fluid, $59.90 - and she liked that there weren't too many products within the range, keeping it simple.

30s

Early ageing signs will be more apparent in this transition phase. Skin needs to be kept clean and refined to ensure good texture and radiance are maintained. And need we say sunblock again! That holds true, even in the cooler, cloudier months ahead as sunblock protects not just from the obvious harsh rays, but also general environmental degradation. This is why everyday whitening ranges are growing in popularity, from Shiseido among others.

Skincare now is mostly preventive, as during the 20s, but if you're inclined to the chemical, Botox use may begin at this age, before wrinkles become established , as this will help deter their forming deep crevices. Adult acne can be addressed with microdermabrasion, and IPL will help deal with pigmentation and redness. Facials with skin stimulators are both relaxing at what is often a stressful age and a way of priming the skin.

Product pick

Sensitive skin sufferers will like the Redness Solution range from Clinique thanks to its soothing, gentle approach. Our tester noticed a difference to her redness issues while using the range, including the Urgent Relief Cream ($75). Clinique's new Superdefence SPF25 age defence moisturiser is year-round reliable and in formulas for different skin needs ($95).

40s

This is when, however good your skin is, you'll notice that your facial contours are starting to change, especially round the jawline and under the eyes. Wrinkles aren't just visible when you're tired and they seem to be getting deeper as you frown into the mirror. Your skin will seem to glow less from within and the signs of sun-damage are also more apparent.

Conversely many woman are feeling especially confident and capable at this life stage and are keen to not feel captured by age.

This is the time to step up using serums, eye-creams and night creams (or oils) for a little extra help. Ranges like France's popular RoC come into play and the likes of Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden and Lancome lift the intensity of their offerings and women may start to look at expensive "miracle creams" from the likes of La Mer and La Prairie. Interest also grows in specialist salon and clinic ranges from skincare houses like Darphin and Gatineau and the derma-ranges such as Murad, Environ and Priori. Starting supplements might be considered also or seeking out fatty acids from the diet.

Skin-tightening facials appeal and more women consider IPL to tackle pigmentation patches. Appearance medicine-wise this is when some women start to eye more botox and fillers for the lips and other areas losing volume. Some consider eye lifts and other plastic surgery.

Product pick

Loss of youthful firmness is the target of Lancome's Renergie Morpholift Rare Nuit ($180) and many other creams. The texture of this is denser than creams aimed at younger skins. It absorbs well and is meant to be massaged into the skin, to give a mini-boost. It's no face-lift in a bottle, but my skin felt firmer after regular use. Lancome, like other leading ranges has particular products suited to different decades, so make sure what you're using is age appropriate.

50s

The skin no longer looks young, but if it has been cared for there is no reason it cannot have good texture and tone. It begins to feel drier and more delicate and structurally much less dense as menopause makes its presence felt. Some women may be troubled by breakouts they haven't had since teenage years. Skin-balancing ranges like Dr Hauschka take a natural approach to dealing with menopausal skins.

Sun protection should continue. Hydration is particularly important and you should have upped the intensity of your skincare line as what worked 10 or more years ago won't feel enough now. Exercise will help you feel vital and bring colour to your face. Tone to your cheeks is trickier, but at this age the plumping facial has friends. Then there's blusher to bolster what time is taking away!

Age spots may appear and pigmentation problems once ignored will become more obvious, with IPL one option to deal with these. Deeper laser rejuvenation and collagen stimulating treatments are options as are botox and fillers.

Product pick

Skincare centres on rich creams and serums and the addition of Vitamin A & C and other antioxidant ingredients. There's a plethora to choose from, from Olay's affordable Regenerist serum to the eye-wincingly expense. So to be contrary we chose something else entirely. Our tester loved the Skin Vitals Lip Boosting Treatment ($19.99 from chemists) we gave her, saying it was "the best lip product this old girl has tried, ever".

It comes with a mini-brush pen applicator and moisturises and soothes lips. I've also been rather taken with Estee Lauder's Perfectionist Correcting Concentrate pen ($88) with a similar brush to apply to wrinkles, I like to think the lines are looking less etched.

60s+

Your skin continues to feel more fragile with age, and discolours. It may also get sensitive, blotchy and irritated. Or perhaps you're the lucky one with the English rose bloom that looks a little faded, but is still delicately beautiful. Care continues to centre on moisture, but you may want a lighter, though still emollient cream on your thinner skin. Serums feel good, because they soak in.

Treatment wise, anything that helps cell turnover will help your skin look less dull. Microdermabrasion does this and older women sometimes embark on peels for brightening purposes.

Product pick

L'Oreal Wrinkle Decrease Collagen Definer with SPF 15 $39.99. This is aimed at the skin on the face and neck, targeting hollows and wrinkles with the aim of plumping and redefinition.

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