KEY POINTS:
"Ten years ago we would have put on a show like this and it would have been considered theatrics," said World's womenswear designer Francis Hooper backstage after their show yesterday.
"But this is all about saying World has grown up. This is a collection that will hold its own internationally. And it has to, we will be showing this in Paris to buyers from all over the world."
After four years away from the runway, World opened Air New Zealand Fashion Week with a collection that showed a new maturity and elegance.
For those expecting World's usual runway dramatics, there may have been some disappointment, but stand-out garments of sharply tailored suits covered in high-dazzle Swarovski crystals and beautiful draping dresses in their trademark clashing colours with contrasting belts and oversized bowties delivered the wow factor.
Creative director New Zealander Brent Lawler, who came to the show from from New York, where he has been working on a shoot with for Italian Vogue, began working on the concept for hair and make-up six weeks ago.
"Once we heard Shiseido was to be the make-up sponsor we went for an Asian-inspired look - pulled back eyes, pale faces and geisha-inspired hair." Indeed every hairpiece was a work of art, made individually from $10,000 worth of real hair.
Lawler has worked with World for more than 20 years, and while he now spends most of his time working for designers such as Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana at the New York and Paris fashion collections, he said it's always a thrill to come home and work with the World team. "It's great to have people saying 'push it further'."
The final result was a look so involved that World had to use 30 models to avoid them having to change garments during the show. Members of the World team were on site at 2am as part of the build-up and models reported at a slightly more civilised 5am to have their make up done for the 11am show.
The piece de resistance of the womenswear was the Swarovski crystal suit. It took two weeks to attach the thousands of crystals and can be made-to-measure for an estimated $30,000.
When it came to the menswear, World had the crowd's full attention.
"It's all about giving guys a chance to dress up and be colourful," explained designer Benny Castles, who took everyday garments and transformed them with shocking pink piping details, and bold blocks of purple, red and more pink. The most subdued pieces were an army green double-breasted peacoat and a paisley velvet coat.
"Dressing up is not about being peacocks or being camp," said Castles. "It's all about moving away from that dark gothic look New Zealand men tend to fall into and livening things up."
