A Taste Of...Croatia with Jess Daniell from Jess' Underground Kitchen

Jess Daniell from Jess' Underground Kitchen discovered new recipes during her travels through Croatia.

In 2018 I spent the better part of a week on the small, sparsely-populated island of Mljet, in Croatia, which is largely a national park. Our days were spent relaxing in the sun, swimming and exploring the island by rental car. We stayed in a simple B&B apartment on the coast, and the host couple living upstairs would bring down freshly-caught fish and herbs every evening (plus homemade ouzo, but that's another story!)

The most vivid food memory I have from our three weeks in Croatia – although we ate many superb dishes - were these barbecued fish. The cathartic act of preparing and tending to a coal barbecue, stuffing the fish with lemon and herbs and then eating with our fingers while the sun set… breathtakingly simple and mouthwateringly delicious.

Cooking whole fish is an affordable and easy way to feed a crowd. The skin protects the delicate flesh and the bones keep it nice and juicy. Lightly oil your grill before cooking, and fight the impulse to turn the fish too soon… it'll be ready to flip when the skin is nicely browned and no longer sticking.

Whole Grilled Fish with Lemon & Capers

Whole grilled fish from Jess Daniell, creator of Jess' Underground Kitchen.

Serves 4-6

4 whole white-fleshed fish, such as snapper, gurnard or tarakihi
2 lemons, sliced thinly
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 tbsp capers, roughly chopped
Handful fresh thyme leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing and drizzling
Lemon wedges, for serving

Method:
1. Bring the fish to room temperature for 20-30 minutes, and pat dry with a paper towel. Score the outside of the fish (this helps the heat distribute evenly during cooking) on an angle all the way to the bone.

2. Season inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff with lemon slices, garlic, capers, and thyme. Feel free to experiment with other fresh herbs and stuffing ingredients here, too.

3. Bring your barbecue to medium heat. Make sure the grill is clean, and brush lightly with oil. Place the fish on the grill, uncovered, until lightly charred and it releases easily from the grate - usually around 3-4 minutes.

4. Carefully flip the fish over, turn the heat to low and cook for 5-10 minutes, depending on the size of your fish, until the flesh is cooked through.

5. Transfer to a platter and let the fish rest for 5-10 minutes, before drizzling with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice to serve.