A hand-picked delicacy

Seared scallops with apple, persimmon and smoked bacon. Photo / Ian Jones.

While many count down the days to Bluff's wonderful juicy oysters every autumn, I rub my hands in glee at this time of year, waiting for glistening, plump scallops - one of my favourite ingredients to cook with.

More than 300 species of scallops are found in the oceans around the world, and New Zealand is home to the large fan-shaped Antarctic Bay scallop, also known as the Southern Queen scallop.

Found at depths of 30m, they grow on the sea floor at a density of six a square metre for one to two years before being harvested.

Unfortunately, the scallop is such a delicacy it is becoming threatened by huge seabed dredging, and chefs are now promoting their support for diver-caught scallops on menus.

These ecological scallops are harvested by divers who collect more mature scallops, leaving the younger ones to allow the population to replenish.

Dining in Hawkes Bay late last year, I was mesmerised by the diameter of my scallops - served as a carpaccio with a citrus, avocado and white almond salad. The next night I discovered the same in another restaurant where my scallops were served with beluga lentils, smoked bacon and candied shallots.

I thought I was on to a fantastic local discovery until I eventually tracked them down as being imported Alaskan Weathervane scallops with the roe removed.

I am privileged to have Spirits Bay scallops right on my back doorstep in Northland. They need only be patted dry with a clean cloth and the muscle tissue removed.

Scallops are easy to overcook - keep the centre moist, not rubbery - and they should be well seasoned and pan-seared at the very last moment before plating.

My secret ingredient is a seasoning dust I've created by peeling three limes then drying them on the windowsill. Toast two sheets of nori over a gas flame until crunchy, and briefly blitz in a food processor. Add the sun-dried lime and nori to a coffee grinder with sea-salt flakes and grind to a powder.

Heat a non-stick saute pan, coat the scallops with a film of avocado oil, sprinkle with the seasoning powder and you'll be greeted by a pleasant citrusy, sea aroma.

Scallops also go well in unexpected food combinations - try them with barbecued pork belly or lip-sticking boneless beef ribs.

During my time as executive chef at Kauri Cliffs luxury resort in Northland, I cooked predominantly for American diners who detested the coral or roe being left on the scallop.

I thought they were mad, but by collecting the coral I managed to create a creamy pink Sauce Jacqueline and re-introduce this back to those same fussy customers in disguise.

Just a note on using frozen scallops: purchase those that are fresh frozen, then unwrap and defrost overnight in a sieve suspended over a bowl covered in the refrigerator.