KEY POINTS:
I first met and interviewed Christian Pol-Roger on his maiden visit to New Zealand in 1981.
Goodness knows what I asked the travelling ambassador for one of the most prestigious family owned French champagne houses. At the time I was a mildly lapsed teetotaller and probably rattled
off a series of inane questions which, in true sophisticated French fashion, he dealt with graciously.
Elan and elegance characterise the man and the champagne. Pol-Roger says he is retired, but continues his ambassadorial and front-of-house duties for the family firm.
Sir Winston Churchill had a predilection for Pol Roger - sealed in the aftermath of World War II when he met, was captivated by and formed a lasting strong friendship with the alluring Odette Pol-Roger.
According to Christian Pol-Roger, Churchill was in his bunker during the blitz on London and turned to his generals and said, "In the midst of a crisis there is always time for a glass of champagne, gentlemen, remember we are not fighting for France, we are fighting for her champagne." After tasting a stunning line-up of Pol Roger champagne recently, I know what Churchill meant.
The first vintage of Blanc de Blanc was 1959. We tried the latest release, 1999, which is $132 and made from 100 per cent chardonnay grapes.
It's biscuity, creamy, fine with delicate bubbles and a long, dry finish. "Not a guillotine wine," says Pol-Roger, "one where as soon as you drink it, it vanishes."
The Brut Rose Vintage 2000 ($119, available next month) is sublime, a lovely salmon colour, light, expressive, discreet, and sensual. "Fifteen years ago, coming to New Zealand trying to sell rose was like trying to sell a Bible to a Marxist," he says.
Later we tried the Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill 1998 ($270, available in July). Created as a tribute to the champagne house's most famous devotee, it is made with only the best grapes and in only the finest vintage years. It has strength, weight and is texture-powerful, but discreet.
I ask Pol-Roger if the great man ever paid for his champagne. A smile, a slight pause ... "the invoices were sent".
RECOMMENDED
Pol Roger Brut Reserve NV
Fragrant, light, lovely and elegant. Almost too easy to enjoy. Dry with lively bead.
Price: $85
No. 1 Cuvee NV
Marlborough chardonnay grapes. Multiple award winner, blanc de blanc style by bubbles craftsman Daniel Le Brun.
Price: $38