A consistent obsession

"Thanks for turning up. Hardly anybody turns up for anything, these days."

These were the opening remarks from Richard Riddiford of Palliser Estate wines in Martinborough.

A number of hospitality stalwarts, wine merchants and wine writers had gathered for a celebratory wine luncheon at the Hyatt's Top Of The Town.

Riddiford, who has a reputation for creating any excuse to throw a party, was keen to recognise a 20-year partnership with Palliser's distributor, Negociants New Zealand.

Riddiford is one of the larger-than-life characters in New Zealand's wine business. As well as leading the highly acclaimed Palliser Estate, he has been a warhorse and rugged ambassador for New Zealand wines.
His dry, laconic wit is the stuff of legend. Sitting opposite him at a wine tasting some years ago, one which involved close to 100 wines, he glanced up and said quietly: "After the 10th sip they all taste the same."

Only the distinct twinkle in his eye indicated he didn't really mean it - but then he might have, you'd never know for sure.
In the course of a rambling but very funny luncheon speech, he toasted the occasion thus: "We like to share our successes with our friends - sometimes even our enemies."

But beneath the cracking one-liners and bonhomie is a serious, reflective man who is quick to acknowledge that these are tough times for the wine industry.

"Not enough people drinking," he says, "Too many bottles, not enough buyers."

Riddiford obsesses about the brand and is insistent on creating quality wines with unerring consistency. He knows that we produce a miniscule amount of the world's wine and that if we disappeared tomorrow, people would hardly notice. Eventually they might wonder "whatever happened to those lovely New Zealand wines?"

Palliser Estate may be the largest winery in the Wairarapa but its commitment to quality is well-known and senior winemaker Allen Johnson has been carefully supervising the entire production since 1990.

Whatever did happen to those lovely New Zealand wines?

They're being grown at Palliser Estate.

RECOMMENDED

Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2008
A perfect Martinborough style of pinot. Not too much up-front fruit. Subtle dried herbs, supple flavours of plum and spice and mushroom. Big rich colour and mature elegant finish. Sassy and sophisticated.
Price: $52

Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Cooler climate-style with big, intense fruit flavours, weighty and full-bodied but retaining a level of crispness and rapier-like acidity. Wonderful harmony and balance. One for those wanting something more in a sauvignon.
Price: $25