As we climbed higher and higher the fog crept down through the knotted trees creating an eerie and mystical surrounding. This was one wild goblin forest.
Grabbing on to one knobbly root after the next, we followed each orange triangle, our faithful beacons of light towards the Kapakapanui Summit.
Walking one of the most accessible hikes in the Tararua Ranges, Kapakapanui Summit is a six to eight hour day hike starting out the back of Reikorangi, a 10 minute drive from the Waikanae train station.
But while it's accessible because of its distance from civilisation and manageable time frame, it is not for the faint-hearted - or those with dodgy knees.
The orange triangles, our faithful beacons of light guiding us towards the Kapakapanui Summit. Photo / Rosalie Willis
Starting at the end of Ngatiawa Rd, a Department of Conservation information board signposts the start of the hike along with the orange triangles which point you over two stiles before you hit the river.
It is here that the fun starts. Not to be avoided are around 10 river crossings, one reaching knee deep, but easy enough to cross once you get over the dilemma of shoes on or off when crossing.
After the first five crossings we reach the signpost where the loop starts. We chose to go left, clockwise, splashing through another five river crossings before we start to head uphill.
Up we climb swiftly being swallowed up by forest. Up, up and up some more using tree roots and branches to help balance and pull ourselves up.
Slowly the forest changes as we gain elevation and we begin to enter the goblin forest.
Knobbly and gnarly, the forest is made up of Kamahi trees knotted together, overhanging and entangled with moss, lichen and epiphytes.
The goblin forest is not unique, they can be found around New Zealand and are common in the Tararua Ranges in areas of 800-1000m of elevation. But the experience is magical just the same.
The hurt starts to set in as there is little reprieve from the climb. First it's the calf muscles, but it quickly moves up to the quadriceps and then the lungs begin to burn.
Kapakapanui forest. Photo / Rosalie Willis
After almost doing the splits, saved only by hanging onto a beech tree, one member of our group is ready to give up. Struggling up the relentless ascent, already covered in mud, this seems like a good place to turn around and head back to the car. But we're already two and a half hours in.
With a little encouragement from the rest of the group we put her at the front – you're only as fast as your slowest person after all.
My pink trail shoes are now brown trail shoes and I'm beginning to think longingly of the ice cold river crossings that were contentious at the start.
It is at this stage that we make the common mistake of discussing what we would have for dinner after our hike. Rich chocolate sauce pudding with melting vanilla icecream was decided upon, I'm trying not to drool.
The temperature starts to drop and we reach the stage of being tired and hungry.
Walking through the knobbly and gnarly, goblin forest. Photo/ Rosalie Willis
But as the goblin forest starts to get thicker, the fog starts to roll in and the atmosphere turns to one of a mystical fairy tale. While still climbing upwards the reprieve comes in the magical forest.
Deeper we go following our orange triangles which act as lifesavers as the track flattens out towards the Kapakapanui Hut built in 1967 by the Kāpiti branch of the New Zealand Deerstalkers Association in order for them to become a credible branch of the national body.
Kapakapanui was chosen as a suitable site because it was readily accessible yet far enough away for the newly introduced members to enjoy the pleasures of bush living.
The building of the hut started in the winter of 1967 with the builders at times surrounded by snow and ice. The opening of the hut was celebrated on August 16 by lighting the stove and receiving visitors from other NZDA branches.
A race was held from the doorway of the hut to the bar of the Waikanae Hotel which was won by the Upper Hutt branch.
From the hut to the trig took another 40 minutes, but as we expected from the fog that made our walk so magical, there was no view to be seen.
The goblin forest, Kapakapanui. Photo / Rosalie Willis
Due to an accidental fire in 1903 and the 1936 cyclone which claimed 12 lives around New Zealand, the summit is exposed, normally featuring one of the best views of the Tararua Ranges, Kāpiti Island and the Kāpiti coastline.
Battling our way through the howling wind to the trig, we continue back into the forest, finding a sheltered spot for lunch.
The way back down is not a walk in the park. The knees start to scream as we scramble down steep banks, taking a number of tumbles along the way.
Thinking longingly of the river crossings which were a point of contention on our way, we now cannot wait to soak our feet in them and clean our mud sodden shoes.
Breaking out a jog here and there when the steep terrain allows for it, we start to hear the river and within no time find ourselves at the start of the loop.
After six hours of mud, sweat, slips and a few tantrums thrown in the climb up Kapakapanui Summit was everything it promised – worth it despite no view from the top.
