Oranges have such a lot to offer — sweet juice, intense fragrant zest and the mild bitterness of the pith. I’ve noticed that Italians are very happy with bitterness; unlike many of us they embrace the taste experience it offers. (As an aside, if you’ve never tried the favourite Italian
drink “chinotto’’ give it a go, it’s bitter and dark like cola but made from the fruit of the same name, also referred to as the “myrtle leaved-orange” tree.) This dense moist cake uses two whole oranges, simmering them to soften the intensity of the zest a little but retaining all the moisture they contain. Combined with almond meal, sultanas and poppy seeds, the result is rich in taste and texture, but not particularly sweet. I like to serve this well chilled, somehow it makes the plump juicy sultanas extra pleasing to bite into. A dollop of natural yoghurt on the side goes well.