Maria Cowan-York made this delectable raw tuna salad at her home in Rarotonga. It's a terrific example of bright local ingredients being given epicurean treatment: beautiful Pacific tuna, a dressing made with ever-available pawpaw seeds, and radishes and green capsicums from Maria's father's farm. Pawpaw seeds give the dressing a
pleasant zing and are reputedly loaded with carpaine, a powerful antioxidant. Pacific capsicums don't seem to have the same sharpness as those from colder climes; they are almost appley. Taste your capsicum before adding to this recipe _ you may be better off with yellow capsicum, or a blend of green capsicum and diced apple. Maria advises against substituting lemon or lime juice for the vinegar in the dressing, as citrus tends to turn the tuna opaque.