Say “I love you Mum” with a lovingly produced meal care of Ray McVinnie
The French have a saying “without bread, without wine, love is nothing”. Though I may be biased, food is a great, time-honoured way of showing affection, and it’s pay back time! After all those years of your mother giving you her time and skill, Mother’s Day is the perfect opportunity for you to return the favour. Your time in the kitchen will say a lot more about your feelings for your mother than merely trawling smart shops to find a gift to buy. Even if it all goes wrong (it won’t if you are organised) your efforts will be appreciated. Cynics know Mother’s Day is now just a commercial festival that began in early 20th century America and is unrelated to the various ancient festivals that celebrated motherhood. There is also a clever element of guilt attached to honouring your mother — imagine how you’ll feel if you don’t do it! So go into the kitchen and make a good job of something your mother has probably done for you most days, make her a great meal. The following may help.
Ceviche salad
Ceviche is said to have originated in Acapulco but many versions are made not just in Mexico but all down the Pacific coast of the Americas, not to mention the versions of marinated raw fish which come from the Pacific Islands. Raw fish marinated in lime juice is one of my favourite first courses. Ceviche is a bit like an ethnic version of a prawn cocktail, light and fresh tasting seafood with an appetite-stimulating tangy dressing. The following is just like ceviche but with less wet stuff. If I have fresh fish fillets that I don’t want to use immediately I always lightly salt each side of the fillets as this slightly cures the fish, seasoning it, firming the texture and keeping the fish fresh. When you see that term “non-reactive” when referring to a bowl, it just means a bowl made of something like stainless steel, porcelain or glass that won’t react with a salty or acidic marinade.
Serves 4
½ cucumber, peeled, split in half length ways, seeds removed by scraping them out with a teaspoon, cucumber thinly sliced
3 radishes, thinly sliced
350g very fresh skinned, boned, firm white fish fillets, (I used john dory) ,thinly sliced
6 Tbsp lime juice
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp tequila (optional)
Pinch of sugar
2 Tbsp thinly sliced chives, plus extra for serving
2 handfuls baby cos leaves
1 large orange, peeled with a sharp knife (no pith), segments cut away from in between the natural divisions
- Put the cucumber and radishes in a non-reactive bowl (see above). Add 1 teaspoon salt, mix well and put aside for 20 minutes.
- Rinse the cucumber and radishes well under cold running water then squeeze dry. Reserve.
- Put the fish in a non-reactive bowl and add 4 tablespoons of the lime juice and a large pinch of salt. Mix well and leave for 30 minutes.
- Put the remaining lime juice, the oil, tequila (if using) sugar and chives into a small food processor and process until well blended. Taste and season with salt. Reserve. This is the dressing.
- Put the cos leaves on to a serving platter or in to 4 bowls.
- Drain the fish and discard the juice it was marinated in. Place the fish on top of the cos. Sprinkle the cucumbers, radishes and orange segments on top.
- Pour the dressing evenly over everything. Scatter some sliced chives on top and serve.
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Chicken with bacon and white beans
I like meals where most of it can be cooked in one go. The following chicken fits that bill. It only needs a plainly cooked green vegetable like broccolini or beans to go with it. You can prepare this up to the point of adding the chicken and finish the dish when needed.
Serves 4
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely diced
1 stick celery, thinly sliced
100g finely diced rindless bacon
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbsp fresh oregano leaves or 1 Tbsp dried
1 preserved lemon, finely diced (or use the zest of1 lemon if preserved is unavailable)
4 whole free range chicken legs, cut in half into drumsticks and thighs
150ml dry white wine
200ml chicken or vegetable stock (I use the Rapunzel brand powdered organic vegetable stock)
2 x 400g cans cannellini beans, drained (but not rinsed)
Parsley leaves for serving
- Heat the oven to 200C.
- Heat the oil over moderate heat in an oven proof frying pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, bacon, garlic, oregano and lemon. Fry gently without browning for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft.
- Add the chicken pieces, skin side up, turn up the heat and add the wine. Let it bubble for 30 seconds then add the stock and the beans.
- Nestle the chicken into the beans. Don't mash the beans. Bring to the boil then place in the oven for 30 minutes or until the chicken is browned and cooked through.5 Remove from the oven and serve sprinkled with parsley leaves.
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Mango and banana salad with yoghurt and coconut sponge
This could also be served on individual plates or bowls.
Serves 4
Coconut sponge
2 large eggs
60g caster sugar
60g flour, sifted
30g long thread desiccated coconut
- Heat the oven to 200C. Line a small shallow baking tin (mine is 19cm x 27cm) with baking paper.
- Beat the eggs and sugar until thick, creamy and pale. Fold in the flour and coconut. Pour into the tin and place in the oven for 10 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.
- Remove from the oven and cool completely. Reserve.
How-to video
Here's how to make a simple three-ingredient sponge. No butter or baking powder. Just flour, sugar and eggs… "the real deal".
Salad
100g dark palm sugar (gula melaka), grated or pounded
50ml boiling water
200ml plain, unsweetened greek yoghurt
200ml coconut cream
1 mango, peeled and sliced
2 bananas, sliced
Zest of 1 large lime
Small handful coriander sprigs
- Put the sugar into a saucepan and add the boiling water. Stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Cool, chill and reserve.
- Spread the yoghurt on a cold serving platter. Pour the coconut cream over the top.
- Break the coconut sponge into bite sized pieces and sprinkle them over the yoghurt and coconut cream.
- Sprinkle the fruit on top of the sponge. Drizzle the palm sugar syrup over everything. Sprinkle the lime zest and coriander on top and serve.