Ray McVinnie discovers the old-fashioned charm and European-city style of Argentina’s capital.
I recently spent what could be described as a very enjoyable long weekend, Friday to Tuesday, in Buenos Aires. My first time, I was there to get the feel of the place and naturally, eat the food and see the sights. Buenos Aires is big with wide boulevards, leafy parks and a varietyof architecture. Each building is signed by the architects with a plaque naming them. There is everything from elaborate ornate Belle Epoque buildings to more utilitarian Soviet style blocks, one with a gigantic neon of Eva Peron which greets you as you drive into the city.
We stayed at the Sofitel Hotel in the Retiro area which was a bit like the nicer areas of Paris, elegant buildings, tree-lined streets and small art galleries. Most streets were studded with restaurants or traditional bakeries. There are also many shops selling riding equipment, specifically for polo which the Argentinians are nuts about, and for being a gaucho — lots of traditional woven ponchos, quality leatherwork and hats.
There is a certain, quite charming, time-warpish feel about Buenos Aires. It feels like the 1990s rather than 2015. Apparently smart phones and tablets are prohibitively expensive in Argentina so that retro feeling is perpetuated by the fact that people still do things like read books.
We went to the famous theatre, el Ateneo Grand Splendid, that has been converted into a huge bookstore. A glance into the theatre’s boxes showed them occupied by happy readers. I headed for a soothing session in the cookery section and to listen to the great jazz they were playing.
We checked out La Boca, formerly a European-migrant area in the port area of southeast Buenos Aires. Today this is tourist Tango Central. There are brightly coloured tenement houses, a lot of tango being danced on the street, many photographs being taken, lots of restaurants and, when I was there, pre-lunch, lots of charcoal grills covered with meat being barbecued.
No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without a stroll around the Recoleta cemetery. This is a true necropolis of opulent tombs, in various states of repair, arranged in streets (at busy intersections I expected a “cross now” signal). Each tomb seemed to have glass doors so you could see into what was often a small but comfortable, if a bit suburban, living room (I use the term reservedly) with coffins visible and often with a chair for a visitor. The place was packed with the living come to visit and the climax of the tour was Eva Peron’s (or actually her family’s, the Duartes’) tomb, which was barricaded with floral tributes from fans.
Another highlight was a visit to the Museum of Decorative Art, housed in one of the many large mansions built by the old families of Buenos Aires with money they made from beef at the turn of the century. This museum is interesting not just for the art and furnishings, or the Canaletto, the El Greco or the Rodin I brushed with my elbow as I walked around the crowded interior, but because it is a mansion. You can go into the white marble bathrooms and bedrooms and see how the creme of Buenos Aires society used to live.
We saw the Metropolitan Cathedral, Pope Francis' church, and his modest former apartment; we saw the Casa Rosada or Pink House, the home of the President of Argentina, where Madonna was filmed in her role as Eva Peron in Evita.
Every Sunday there is a giant flea market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo, a visit to which made the pulses quicken for the food writers among us. This was not because of food: the food market is held during the week, but because of the many second-hand kitchen goods for sale. Food writers are always looking for props for photographs— it is like an unscratchable itch — so San Telmo market was perfect territory for such loot. You can find anything from an antique comb to a full dinner service.
As I didn’t leave the city, I had little concept of Argentina, the country, so Buenos Aires felt very European, like Madrid, or, in parts, Paris. I thought Europe was 24 hours away but found a very stylish European city which will soon be even closer when Air New Zealand starts its direct flights in December.
Food
Argentinian food is a mix of Spanish, Italian and South American flavours and dishes. There was little very spicy food but lots of elegant simple dishes that relied on good quality ingredients. We ate well. All restaurants, unsurprisingly, seemed to have great local wine on their lists and the alcohol prices seemed very reasonable.
I brought back a bottle of Campari which cost NZ$10 at the supermarket. I also brought back several boxes of Havana brand alfajores, small shortcake biscuits sandwiched with dulce de leche and either dipped in chocolate or frosted. They are as iconic to Argentinian cuisine as macarons are in France.
Luckily there are not too many specifically Argentinian ingredients needed for real Argentinian food. I had a word with Sarah Ginella, chef at Maldito Mendez restaurant in Auckland, where they serve great food from Central and South America and she said things like dulce de leche are available from La Esquina Latina (laesquinalatina@live.com) but many of these products are also now at good supermarkets and specialty food shops.
Where to eat
Cafe Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 825.
The oldest cafe in Buenos Aires, it has a huge old Belle Epoque interior and traditional urban Argentinian food with a French twist. We went for breakfast and had to queue for a table. Definitely worth a visit even if just for a coffee and the atmosphere.
Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872.
The entrance is a well-stocked flower shop which conceals a basement restaurant. Young, hip, good music and good quality traditional food with a modern touch; we went back.
Croque Madame, Avenida del Libertator 1902.
This is a tiny restaurant in the former gate house of the mansion housing the Museum of Decorative Arts. It serves the eponymous French toasted sandwiches as well as coffee, drinks, pasta and risotto.
Fervor, Posadas 1519.
This is old-school Buenos Aires class. A traditional Argentinian restaurant which is famous for fish and seafood, something that can be hard to find in the city. My sea bass and radicchio salad were perfect. Immaculate service.
La Brigada, Estados Unidos 478.
If you like steak, this is a must. Popular with both tourists and locals, the steaks are huge, the food good quality and delicious. Great place for offal, we had black pudding and veal sweetbreads.
Chila, Avenido Alicia Moreau de Justa 1160.
Modern Argentinian food by chef Soledad Nardelli. A beautiful modern minimalist restaurant set by the river in the new upmarket Puerta Madera district. If you want to see cutting-edge food in BA, this is the place.
Basa, Basavilbaso 1328.
A modern basement eatery in the Retiro district. We ate a great lunch there. The focus is on quality ingredients; my free range chicken was great.
La Americana, Avenida Corrientes 1383.
A gigantic bakery that sells fresh pastries, bread and every sort of empanada and pie in the Argentinian repertoire. Eat in or takeaway. Perfect, I would think, for breakfast after a big night.
Silverbeet and prawn fritters with chimichurri
Bunelos or fritters were often on the menu and the following is my version.
Serves 6.
Chimichurri
The following is a parsley chimichurri, perhaps the most simple, but perfect with the fritters.
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup tightly packed flat leafed parsley leaves
1 tsp salt
3 Tbsp lemon juice
100ml grape seed or other lightly flavoured vegetable oil.
- Place the garlic and parsley in a mortar or small food processor and pound or process to a paste. Add the salt and lemon juice and pound or process again.
- Add the oil a little at a time, stirring continuously until it is all used. Season with white pepper. Reserve.
Fritters
4 eggs, beaten
80g flour
½ cup finely grated parmesan
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
6 silverbeet leaves (about 500g), coarse stems cut off,
250g raw peeled prawns, thinly sliced (I used Australian prawns because they have a great flavour)
Finely chopped zest of 1 lemon
Extra virgin olive oil for frying
- Put the eggs, flour, parmesan and baking powder and salt into a bowl and whisk until smooth.
- Drop the silverbeet leaves into a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer 4 minutes or until the silverbeet is well wilted. Drain, cool under cold water and squeeze dry. Slice the silverbeet thinly, tease out the lumps and add to the egg mixture. Add the prawns and zest and mix well.
- Heat some oil in a large frying pan and fry large spoonfuls of the mixture until well browned on each side and cooked in the middle. (Turn each fritter when you see bubbles appear on the uncooked side.) Cut one in half if you are in doubt. You will have about 12 fritters.
- Place on a tray on paper towels to drain and serve with the chimichurri.
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Skirt steak with creole sauce, fried potatoes and salad
The appetite for beef in Argentina is heroic, I have never seen such huge portions. At La Brigada restaurant I ordered skirt steak or entrana, which received a nod of approval from our Argentinian guide. Skirt steak is one of the least expensive cuts of beef but has a great flavour. It needs to be fried hot and fast or braised long and slow or it will be tough. The former is what is required here.
Serves 6
Creole sauce
My hybrid version of the Argentinian tomato sauces to go with meat.
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1 bay leaf
100ml red wine
400g can chopped tomatoes in juice
2 tsp sugar
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
- Heat the oil in a frying pan over moderate heat and add the onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, paprika and bay leaf. Fry gently, without browning for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft.
- Turn the heat up and add the wine, let it bubble for 30 seconds then add the tomatoes, sugar and vinegar. Bring to the boil and simmer 15 minutes or until thick.
- Taste, re-season with salt if necessary and with freshly ground black pepper. Remove from the heat and reserve.
Salad
This salad is inspired by one eaten at Floreria Atlantico, a flower shop which is the entrance to the restaurant downstairs. Outdoor tomatoes may be seasonal but cherry tomatoes transcend seasonality as they are grown indoors all year round, like most tomatoes we buy. I liked the generous salads served in many restaurants and the way the greens were sliced up into manageable bite-sized pieces.
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced to ribbons with a potato peeler
1 red onion thinly sliced
½ tsp salt
3 Tbsp white wine vinegar
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
250g multi-coloured cherry tomatoes, halved
1 small radicchio, thinly sliced
Put the carrot, onion, salt, vinegar and oil into a bowl. Mix well and reserve for 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and radicchio and mix well, season with freshly ground black pepper and serve.
Steak and potatoes
Many restaurant dishes were served with fried potatoes like the following.
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 kg agria potatoes, peeled and diced 2cm
750g skirt steak, trimmed of fat and sinew, gently beaten with a rolling pin or meat mallet until about 1cm thick all over.
- Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large frying pan over moderate heat. Add the potatoes and season with salt. Fry gently, stirring frequently and scraping the fried bits off the bottom of the pan, for 40 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and browned.
- When the potatoes are almost ready, heat a ridged grill pan over high heat. Rub the remaining tablespoon of oil over the steak and season well with salt and pepper.
- Place the steak in the pan and fry over high heat for 2-3 minutes each side (you may need to cut the steak in half and do this in 2 batches, depending on the size of your frying pan).
- Remove steak from the pan and rest for 5 minutes, loosely covered with foil, in a warm place.
- Slice the steak thinly across the grain of the meat and serve with the sauce, potatoes and salad.
To favourite, print or share this recipe, go to the recipe page.
Rice pudding with pears, dulce de leche and almond crumbs
I have included a recipe for dulce de leche, the caramelised condensed milk Argentinians seem addicted to. I made it and although it needed constant attention for the 2 hours of cooking, it wasn’t difficult and I liked the result. Highlander brand condensed milk does a caramel version in a tin and this is a pretty good, not to mention inexpensive, approximation of dulce de leche. This makes boiling a can of condensed milk until caramelised a bit superfluous. Otherwise you can buy an imported brand of dulce de leche which will be more expensive.
Serves 6.
Almond crumbs
75g butter
¼ cup sugar
½ cup flour
½ cup sliced almonds
- Heat the oven to 180C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
- Put the butter, sugar, and flour into a food processor and process well to form a mixture with a gravel-like texture. Alternatively, place the butter, sugar and flour in a bowl and rub the butter into the flour with your fingers.
- Place in a bowl and stir in the sliced almonds.
- Sprinkle the mixture on to the tray in a thin layer. Place in the oven for 10-15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven, cool and break up any big lumps. Reserve.
Rice pudding
Chilled rice pudding featured on most restaurant dessert menus, which was fine by me as it is one of my favourite desserts
1 litre full cream milk
500ml cream
Large pinch of salt
1 cinnamon stick
Zest of 1 lemon
½ cup sugar
½ cup short grain rice
- Put everything, but only half the cream, into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 25-30 minutes, stirring frequently until the rice is tender and the mixture has thickened and is creamy.
- Remove from the heat, discard the cinnamon stick and allow to cool then chill.
- Whip the remainder of the cream and reserve.
Pears
3 large pears, peeled,quartered, cored
4 Tbsp caster sugar
500ml water
1 Tbsp lemon juice
- Put everything into a saucepan over moderate heat. Bring to the boil and simmer 30 minutes or until the liquid is syrupy and the pears tender.
Dulce de leche
1 litre full cream milk
300g caster sugar
Pinch of baking soda
1 tsp vanilla extract
- Put everything into a heavy based saucepan and gently bring to the boil. Turn the heat down so the mixture is just simmering and simmer 2 hours or until thick, shiny and dark golden brown in colour. You will need to lower the temperature as the mixture reduces and gets thicker.
- Remove from the heat and cool. This makes about 1½ cups and it will keep covered in the fridge for a month.
To serve
Serve the chilled rice pudding with some pears, a dollop of dulce de leche (or the highlander caramel condensed milk), a sprinkling of the almond crumbs and some whipped cream.