Your Business: Crane Brothers going for the Continental look

Crane Brothers founder Murray Crane (left) with newly hired general manager Karl Clausen. Photo / Supplied

Auckland tailor Crane Brothers is planning to join the ranks of the European big hitters, Brioni and Canali, by launching its own line of European-made suits.

Founder Murray Crane is in talks with a supplier to make Crane Brothers suits in Europe.

"There is still a cachet to something made in Europe rather than New Zealand.

"It will still be Crane Brothers, but made in Europe, made in a factory that is making all the best labels," says Crane.

As they get older, his clients start to look at high-status brands like Brioni, Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna, says Crane.

"Most companies when they grow tend to diversify by watering down their offer.

"We are going more expensive, flying in the face of fashion."

Apart from his High St headquarters, Crane also has a large store in Wellington's Customhouse Quay.

The Cantabrian has created a brand of contemporary, modern tailoring, offering ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke suits.

The entry level for a two-piece suit is $1395.

Crane has just hired a general manager, Karl Clausen, who was working as head of bespoke suiting at Alfred Dunhill's Bourdon House in Mayfair, London.

The Christchurch-born New Zealander has worked for two decades in high-end menswear.

Clausen's responsibilities will include overseeing the latest version of Crane Brothers' website, to be launched next month, enabling customers to look at, order and buy their suits online.

The emphasis will remain on quality customer relationships and retaining clients.

The guy who walks in with shorts and Jandals will be treated the same as a prince, says Clausen.

"It's not how you go in, it's how you go out."

Self-taught, Crane started Crane Brothers 12 years ago with his brother Mark, who left the business early on.

Crane's workroom now has six fulltime tailors.

Crane Brothers is a typical SME, with a turnover of under $5 million and 15 staff.

The retailer's customers are largely New Zealanders, some living overseas - in Australia, New York and London - typically among the 25 to 45 age group.

Clients in New Zealand range from 18 to 55 and include architects, lawyers, MPs, entertainers and broadcasters.

Crane increasingly wants to give the brand overseas exposure by taking trunk shows to cities like Sydney and Melbourne, hiring a space where clients can visit by appointment.

He is against wholesaling internationally because of the lack of control.

The entrepreneur has been simplifying his business in the past couple of years.

He put his Little Brother brand into Barkers Menswear in 2009.

"I licensed it. I still own the trademark and still design the range and develop the products."

Crane takes governance seriously and has Deloitte partner Matt McKendry and Tony Kerridge from Caffe L'Affare, also a shareholder, on his advisory board.

"What we are doing with Crane Brothers is not about diversification.

"Every new customer represents a customer for life - if we can manage them for life, we will have a very good family of clients."

The company likes to emulate the understated marketing of Savile Row tailors.

"We are very clear about what our brand is and who we are.

"Like-minded souls will find us.

"When they want a new suit - we make sure we give them what they want."

The ultimate for Crane is when a man who bought his wedding suit from him brings his son in for his first suit.

Crane is not about world domination.

"Our size is limited by how much we can produce. What's wrong with a business that is its optimum size?"

CRANE BROTHERS

* Tailoring firm.
* Founded in 1998 by Murray and Mark Crane.
* Stores in Auckland and Wellington.
* 15 staff.