Kiwi bridewear finds a ready market in US

Jules Bly's gowns will be for sale on Park Ave.

Bridal designer Jules Bly is leaving late nights at the sewing machine behind her after cutting herself an exclusive deal with one of the world's largest bridal salons.

As a result of some gutsy marketing at New York Bridal Week last month, Tauranga-based Bly now has an account with the city's Kleinfeld Bridal, transforming her from an independent dress-maker to the name of a multi-million-dollar bridal brand.

Having spent the past few weeks recovering from the intensity of the trip, it wasn't until recounting the tale to a friend recently that the enormity of the deal finally sank in for Bly.

"My gowns are going to be in Park Ave - maybe even in the window."

Bly has spent the past 15 years making her custom-designed, hand-sewn gowns at the rate of about one a month.

In the 28-35-year-age bracket, she identified an emerging market of more confident, body-conscious brides who were getting more daring in their choices of wedding gowns.

The popularity in NZ of beach weddings and more novel venues was also influencing her designs towards "fashionable and sexy" as opposed to the "strapless meringue".

She started thinking that with a style such as "extroverted elegance", she might be able to tap into similar bridal markets overseas.

In October, she approached commercialisation experts Chameleon for help in the matter.

Although it was initially dubious, managing director Mark Estall said, Bly's enthusiasm and gutsy approach inspired it to put some "leg work" into her case.

Chameleon commissioned consultancy company Traffic, in which it is the major shareholder, to undertake a $40,000 research project on the United States bridal market.

When the results showed the proposal to be viable, Chameleon agreed to take Bly on.

Estall and Bly flew to New York to explore their initial strategy of selling the gowns in department stores.

The trip changed their thinking and they returned home to set about targeting the high-end bridal salons.

To promote Bly's name required a marketing plan, more research, another sales trip to the US, a stand at the New York Bridal Week Trade Show, promotional brochures and a DVD - at an all-up cost of about $250,000.

The money came from an unlikely source - four Auckland builders operating under the investment vehicle Trew. For the guys, who still work on the tools one day a week, it was their first investment outside the building sector.

Estall offered them a 20 per cent stake in the company and a management role to get them involved in the business on a daily basis.

Like most other designers heading for the trade show, Bly organised a cocktail party to woo the bridal salons. She set herself apart with postcard invitations featuring a Coromandel Beach, rather than a bridal theme. She followed this up with a personal phone call and managed to get the ear of Kleinfeld, one of the largest bridal suppliers in the world.

After the show, the salon dropped one of its 70 designers to take on Bly.

She says Kleinfeld is a household name in the US. "The first question friends of a newly engaged girl will ask her is - when's your appointment at Kleinfeld?"

The salon has ordered from a collection Bly designed specifically for the show and it is due to start stocking the range next month.

In a country with 2.2 million weddings each year, Kleinfeld sells 16,000 gowns and gets visits from about 120 prospective brides each day.

Estall has done the maths and, based on Bly being one of its lower profile labels, he expects to be selling about eight gowns a week, for about US$5000 each.

Bly is now looking to hire up to 10 staff in Auckland and Tauranga to meet the demand.

She is confident her gowns will stand out in the US market, which is still largely stuck in the "princess thing".

She will also be capitalising on a trend towards destination weddings in the US. Growing numbers of American brides are turning away from large weddings and are heading for places like Hawaii or Costa Rica for a more intimate celebration.

"These brides want something they can wear on the beach and not have to wear shoes. Our research shows this to be a big emerging market over there. We [New Zealanders] have been getting married on the beach for years, but it's new for them overseas."

Bly is excited by her prospects. "This is where I want to be, not working in my business any more but on it."

Estall will take cares of sales. Chameleon now owns 25 per cent of the company, leaving Bly free to focus on design and manufacturing.

The initial aim was be a $2 million to $3 million revenue company after one year in the US, but already she is looking at sales of $5 million after six months.

In July, Bly will return to her new stockist for a by-appointment show where her collection will be paraded for first time.