Nose for new flavours keeps consumers happy

GENEVA - Bob Antenucci leans over a red-and-silver machine the size of a small suitcase and tweaks the "fruity" controls on his laptop. Seconds later, the scent of strawberries fills his office. At the click of a mouse, he increases the "jammy" and "creamy" settings, changing the aroma to that of strawberry shortcake.

The refinements by Antenucci, 50, head of European taste research at Givaudan, the world's largest flavour developer, may result in new strawberry-flavoured water for Nestle.

Cadbury-Schweppes, Coca-Cola and Nestle are increasingly turning to specialist flavour researchers, such as Givaudan, as they try to meet demands for healthier food that tastes just as good as the sugar-, fat- or salt-laden original.

Georgia-based research firm Leffingwell & Associates says fragrance and flavour consulting is a US$18 billion ($25.5billion) industry that has grown 24 per cent since 2001.

"To create a great flavour, you need to source thousands of materials from exotic places," says Clint Brooks, senior vice-president of research at New York-based International Flavors & Fragrances, the world's No 2 taste consulting company. "All these supply chain issues require a global expertise and a certain scale. Few large companies have any in-house flavouring expertise any more."

Vernier, Switzerland-based Givaudan's "virtual aroma synthesizer" with its scent-spraying clear plastic nozzle, is the latest weapon in the battle to identify new tastes. It contains 30 cartridges filled with aroma components, allowing Givaudan's technicians to fine-tune flavour right under the noses of food-company executives.

"People can smell many more flavours than they can taste," Antenucci says. "This machine allows us to provide different combinations and translate those scents into taste."

Givaudan scientists visit tropical jungles in French Guyana and Gabon to discover new scents to incorporate into products. Those flavours are analysed chemically so that the company can recreate the components.

In 1970, a Givaudan technician discovered cis- 3-hexenol and maltol, the key taste-bud triggering components in strawberries, leading to the development of artificial strawberry flavouring.

Antenucci, who has a doctorate in food chemistry from Virginia State University, says new technology accelerates the response time to consumer whims.

"We can reduce months of work down to hours," he says. "Everything is either won or lost on whether you really understand what the client and consumer wants."

Mango and papaya, flavours popular in drinks and sweet snacks last year, may be eclipsed by lychee and pomegranate this year, says New York-based MarketResearch.com. Chili flavouring, a perennial favourite in savoury dishes, may be joined by turmeric and cumin as Indian food gains favour worldwide.

Brooks says clients are demanding new flavours with lower levels of sugar, salt and monosodium glutamate.

Food companies are also looking for ingredients that mask the metallic flavour of artificial sweeteners.

The food companies that offer consumers healthier products are also getting a revenue boost. Sales of London-based Tate & Lyle's Splenda, a calorie-free artificial sweetener, rose 64 per cent last year. The sugar substitute, favoured for its realistic taste, is used in about 4000 products, including soft drinks produced by Coca-Cola and Pepsi.

Brooks said innovations developed by outside taste researchers also helped food companies cut costs in the face of pressure from global retailers to lower their prices.

Biotechnology researcher Senomyx is using newfound knowledge of human genetics to develop molecules that more effectively bind to taste receptors on the tongue. This should allow companies to produce foods with the same level of saltiness, sweetness or savoury taste with as much as one-third less salt, sugar or MSG, says CEO Kent Snyder.

The company was contracted in July by Cadbury to develop new gum tastes.

- BLOOMBERG 

Fragrance and flavour facts:

* Fragrance and flavour consulting is a US$18 billion industry.
* It has grown 24 per cent since 2001.
* Biotechnology research is developing molecules that more effectively bind to taste receptors on the tongue.
* This should allow companies to produce foods with the same level of saltiness, sweetness or savoury taste with as much as one-third less salt, sugar or MSG.