Liam Dann: US discovering clean, green grass-fed meat

We live in a culinary age where far-fetched and fringe ideas about food production are heartily consumed by an urban population desperate to believe that the latest fad will lower their cholesterol, boost their immune system and ensure they live to 106.

But there is a new craze in United States farming that is almost too radical to be believed.

A growing number of farmers in New York state are feeding their cattle on - wait for it - grass.

Wow! Who would have thought cattle would eat that stuff?

Apparently these farmers just let their animals stand around in a paddock and help themselves.

This exciting trend in beef production was reported in the New York Times Dining & Wine section on June 1. The article was headlined (in all seriousness): "Give 'em a Chance, Steers will Eat Grass".

It reports that grass-fed farming is a fast-growing niche which allows farmers to command premium prices for their animals.

In 2000 there were just 50 US farmers raising cattle on pasture. Now there are more than 1000.

Grass-fed beef is being sold as a clean, green, politically correct product in trendy Manhattan foodmarkets. The grass-fed trend is prompting some vegetarians to revert to eating meat.

Like a political movement, "grass-fed" even has its own website: www.eatwild.com

The phenomenon is great news for New Zealand beef farmers, who will no doubt be chuffed to discover they are at the height of New York foody fashion.

But beyond the glamour of the media spotlight are fantastic financial implications for New Zealand exports.

For years a US and European obsession with factory farming has created a global industry standard where free-range beef has been viewed as second-rate.

Any beef expert will tell you there is a taste difference, but whether one is better or worse is entirely subjective - at least that is the line Meat and Wool New Zealand is pushing in Asian markets.

The BSE scare in the US - resulting in a ban on American beef in Korea, Taiwan and Japan - has provided a golden opportunity to sell New Zealand free-range product as a healthy alternative.

It is hoped that, when Asian borders are reopened to American beef, many consumers will stick with grass-fed. The trend highlighted by the New York Times will only aid that cause.

When it comes to fashions, Americans - particularly New Yorkers - are at the forefront. They have a huge influence on global consumption patterns.

The grass-fed trend also raises the prospect of New Zealand exporters making more money from US sales. America remains our biggest single market for beef after all.

Unfortunately, unless there are some big movements at the World Trade Organisation table in the next 12 months, trade barriers will remain which prevent New Zealand selling large volumes of beef at the premium end of the US market.

But even ground beef - which is how most of our exports to the US are sold - is commanding a premium when it is grass-fed, according to the Times article.

New York consumers are paying more than NZ$18 a kilogram (US$5.99 a pound) for grass-fed mince.

Are they crazy? Probably, but who cares.

Following the low-carb craze that pushed US beef prices to record highs last year, let's hope those food-obsessed Yanks keep the culinary crazes coming.