Fashion prefers individual style

By DITA DE BONI

To cluster or not to cluster: That is one of the questions that has been answered by Auckland's fashion industry as it gears up to further develop international markets.

Despite the fact that a recent fashion sector survey by the Auckland City Council paints the picture of an undercapitalised, unmentored industry with labour needs unmet, most industry players have dismissed the idea of developing a regional "cluster" of fashion businesses.

They say the priority is to bridge the gap between the skills of graduates and the needs of the industry.

According to a cross section of businesses surveyed, there is a desperate shortage of pattern makers and Machinists, with 70 per cent of companies saying graduates do not have the necessary practical skills.

The shortage of labour comes as many fashion businesses are growing rapidly. About 83 per cent of respondents said they had experienced growth in the past 12 months - some reporting over 100 per cent growth each year for the past three.

More than a third said they would expand if they could get skilled workers.

But most of those surveyed were not in favour of a "fashion district," a proposal last year to create a fashion precinct by offering firms pockets of leasable space in the city.

Although the council has indicated it would help form an action group to raise the profile of the industry, Victoria Carter, who chairs the committee that commissioned the research, says it should now stand back and let the industry network for itself.

Apparel and Textile Federation head Paul Blomfield says the fact that the council commissioned research "reflects that it is listening."

But the industry now needed to discuss how it could collectively manage the training needed to fulfil its potential to double the present $200 million in fashion exports in the next 10 years.

"Traditionally, machinist training was done by the major employers such as Holeproof, Lane Walker Rudkin and Bendon ... but as these units have closed, so training has ceased.

"It is a popular misconception that [machinist training] is the purpose of technical institutes."

Apparel industry recruitment agent Donna Whittle says the idea of apprenticeships is good, although there would have to be a compelling financial case for small business owners to take apprentices on.

She says the industry and education providers urgently need to be aligned, as institutions are turning out far too many design students with rudimentary skills that cannot be absorbed by the sector.

"We need to let students know at an early age the career paths that they can choose in the industry. The background work has been started - but who is to carry it on?"