Wilson said this year's awards, announced last night, weren't so much about new places setting the pace, but older establishments lifting their game.
"The French Café hasn't won for five years, but it has comprehensively overhauled everything it does, and has fought its way back to the top," he said.
"Similarly, on Waiheke, Te Whau used to be our regular Rural Restaurant winner, but it lost that spot a few years ago. Now it's back. And the best Upmarket Bistro and best Smart Dining restaurant are also two old favourites among Auckland diners: The Engine Room, and O'Connell Street Bistro."
The awards, now in their 11th year, are judged by a panel of 10 food industry folk. The bookings are usually made under false names and all meals are paid for.
Wilson said when it comes to judging he asked himself: "How much do we want to come back?"
"Lots of restaurants are pretty good.
"But when you ask yourself, would it matter if I never have this experience again, it's remarkable how often you realise the restaurant may have been good, but it really hasn't been special."
Metro Emirates Restaurant of the Year Awards 2013 results:
Supreme Winner: The French Café
Runner-up: The Engine Room
Top 10: Cocoro, Depot Eatery & Oyster Bar, Kazuya, O'Connell Street Bistro, Ortolana, Sidart, Te Whau, The Grove
Best Fine Dining: The French Café
Runners-up: Sidart, The Grove
Best Smart Dining: O'Connell Street Bistro
Runner-up: Cocoro
Best Upmarket Bistro: The Engine Room
Runner-up: Te Whau
Best Casual Bistro: Depot Eatery & Oyster Bar
Runner-up: Ortolana
Best Chef: Simon Wright (The French Café)
Highly commended: Ben Bayly (The Grove), Nick Honeyman (The Commons), Michael Meredith (Merediths), Sid Sahrawat (Sidart) , Makoto Tokuyama (Cocoro) Kazuya Yamauchi (Kazuya)
Best Service: The French Café
Runners-up: Soul, Kazuya
Best Rural: Te Whau
Runners-up: Bracu, Casita Miro
Best Asian: Cocoro
Runner-up: Ebisu
Best Italian: Totó
Runner-up: The Refreshment Room
Best Drinks List: Cocoro
Highly commended: Clooney, Molten, Number 5, The French Cafe
Best Short Drink List: Ponsonby Road Bistro
Highly commended: Eight.Two, Depot, Sidart, Sunday Painters
Best New Restaurant: Kazuya
Runner-up: Ortolana
Best Value for Money: Mexico
Highly commended Kazuya
Personality of the Year: Ganesh Raj (The Tasting Shed)