It seems an anomaly that oysters are almost impossible to buy in their shells, but mussels can be bought, even from supermarkets, kept alive in clever spray cabinets.
Steamed open in a little water laced with a splash of wine, they are delicious on their own or topped with a variety of ingredients.
The trick is not to overpower them. This week's recipe combines them with home-made mayonnaise given a touch of smokiness through the addition of Chinese sesame oil, plus
just-cooked diced capsicum to add crunch.
20 mussels, alive in the shell
1 small onion, quartered lengthways
2 sprigs parsley
1 tsp peppercorns
splash of white wine
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 red capsicum, de-seeded and diced
1 egg yolk
1 tsp miso paste
half cup pure olive oil
1 Tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp sushi vinegar
Place scrubbed mussels in a shallow pan with onion, parsley, peppercorns, wine and half a cup of cold water. Cover, bring to the boil. After 30 seconds or so, remove mussels with a slotted spoon as they open. Squeeze the shells together to pull out the seaweedy "beard'', then remove the top shell. Put aside to reach room temperature.
Heat the vegetable oil in a frypan and cook the diced capsicum, stirring a couple of times, for one minute. Meanwhile, make the mayonnaise. Place the egg yolk in a warmed bowl and add miso paste. Combine with a balloon whisk, then drizzle in olive oil, drop by drop at first then in a thin trickle. Finally, stir in sesame oil and sushi vinegar. If the mayonnaise separates, start again with another egg yolk, drizzling the turned liquid into it.
The whole procedure can also be done in a food processor, but the texture will be a little different. Arrange mussels on a platter and dab sesame mayonnaise and a scattering of diced capsicum on top.
Serves 4 as a starter
Wine match
Sauvignon blanc is often identified as a natural partner for shellfish but, in this context, where the star ingredient is topped with an unctuously smooth dressing that carries a hint of smokiness, a barrel-aged chardonnay would be a better choice. Montana Reserve Gisborne Chardonnay 2008 spent several months in a mixture of new and used barrels (new barrels add stronger oak character), and they have contributed aromas of All-Bran to the peach-like bouquet. It has a whack of crisply refreshing acids on the palate, but smooth-edged fruit wins out through the middle and on the rich finish. You should find it selling in the low-$20s.
