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Home / Aucklander / Lifestyle

Jan Bilton: Slice of history among choice cuts

By Jan Bilton
NZME. regionals·
21 Aug, 2014 06:00 PM6 mins to read

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Have you ever wondered how meat cuts acquired their names? These vary from country to country and, in some cases, from region to region.

Some are confusing and controversial. Take the porterhouse. According to one story, these steaks were named after Porter Houses, which were inns selling porter (beer) and food along early American coach routes. Another is that Massachusetts hotel and restaurant proprietor Zachariah B. Porter lent his name to the cut of beef.

The porterhouse is the portion of the sirloin on the opposite side of the bone to the fillet - and is often called sirloin steak. Confused?

Chateaubriand steak, a thick cut from the tenderloin, is said to have taken its name from the first diner to enjoy it, Vicomte Francois-Rene de Chateaubriand (1768-1848), a writer, ambassador and gourmand. When his personal chef whipped up a very large peppered beef tenderloin topped with a buttery wine and shallot sauce a meat sensation was born.

And how confusing is this? A pork butt comes from the front of a pig (the shoulder), not the end the name suggests.

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Schnitzel is another cut over which there is debate.

Schnitzel has become an all-encompassing word for thin slices of any meat.

However, it was the wienerschnitzel, "a scaloppine of veal from Vienna", that made the schnitzel famous on international menus. Vienna State archives contain a report that during the 1857 military campaign in Italy a dish from Milan - the scaloppine alla Milanese - was praised by an Austrian general.

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It became so appreciated the Austrians finally claimed it as their own. However, further research finds it was Spanish troops who brought the dish to Italy, named a "costeletta in the Spanish manner".

Schnitzels - pork, veal, lamb, beef or chicken - are versatile.

Not only can they be cooked as scaloppine of any size, they can be stuffed, rolled and casseroled or stir-fried.

Just be careful not to overcook them.

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Recipes

Porterhouse with bearnaise sauce

Serves 2

• Steak: 2 porterhouse steaks, about 350g in total
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp butter for cooking
• Bearnaise Sauce: 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 1 tbsp tarragon or cider vinegar
• 1 small shallot, finely diced
• 1/2 tsp dried tarragon
• 2 tsp finely chopped parsley
• 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large egg yolks
• 100g butter, melted

1. Rub steaks with crushed garlic. Sprinkle generously with black pepper. Stand in a cool place while preparing sauce.

2. Combine wine, vinegar, shallot, parsley, tarragon and black pepper in a saucepan. Simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Cool then strain.

3. Whisk egg yolks in top part of a double boiler. Place over barely simmering water.

4. Whisk in strained wine. Slowly whisk in butter until light and fluffy.

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5. To cook steak, melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy frying pan. Cook steaks about 3-4 minutes each side for medium-rare. Rest for a few minutes before serving.

6. Top each steak with bearnaise and serve remainder on the side.

Sichuan stir-fried chicken

This sauce is also great with pork and lamb. Schnitzels sliced into strips are perfect for stir-frying. Serves 4.

• Sauce: 1/2 cup chicken stock
• 1 tbsp each: sugar, finely grated root ginger, Worcestershire sauce,
• 2 tbsp each: soy sauce, rice wine vinegar
• 2 tsp cornflour
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• 2-3 tsp chilli paste
• 1 shallot, finely diced
• 2 large cloves garlic, crushed
• Stir-fry: 400g skinned and boned chicken, thinly sliced into strips
• 1 each: onion, green and red capsicums, thinly sliced
• 100g snow peas, trimmed
• 1-2 tbsp rice bran oil
• coarsely ground Sichuan pepper or black pepper to taste

1. Combine all ingredients for sauce and place aside.

2. Prepare ingredients for stir-fry.

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3. Heat oil in a large wok. Stir-fry vegetables, until crisp-tender. Place aside.

4. Stir-fry chicken until just cooked, about 3 minutes. Return vegetables to pan. Whisk sauce, then stir into wok, until thickened. Serve topped with pepper and serve with rice.

Stir-fried pork, rice and cashews

Great garnished with pickled ginger. Serves 4.

• 1 tbsp each: orange juice, soy sauce, cornflour
• 1 tsp each: sugar, chilli oil
• 400g pork schnitzel, thinly sliced
• 1-2 tbsp canola oil
• 4 cups cooked long grain rice (about 1 & 1/2 cups raw)
• 2 cups finely sliced spinach
• 1/2 cup toasted cashew nuts
• 2 spring onions, diagonally sliced

1. Combine orange juice, soy sauce, cornflour, sugar and chilli oil.

2. Place pork in a plastic bag.

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3. Add soy mixture and move meat around so it is evenly coated. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

4. Heat half the oil in a wok on high. Stir-fry meat until cooked, about 2-3 minutes. Remove to a plate.

5. Wipe wok clean. Add remaining oil to the wok. Add rice and stir-fry for 2 minutes, until all the grains are separated.

6. Add spinach, meat, nuts and spring onions and cook long enough to heat through. Serve immediately.

Lamb steaks with caper sauce

Serves 4

• Lamb: 4 lamb leg steaks, about 500g
• 2 tbsp each: white wine, olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2-3 tsp lemon pepper seasoning
• spray oil for cooking
• Caper Sauce: 25g butter
• 2 tbsp flour
• 1 cup chicken or lamb stock
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tsp caper, rinsed and drained
• 1 large egg yolk, whisked

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1. Snip edges of steaks to prevent curling during cooking.

2. Place in a plastic bag with wine, oil and garlic.

3. Move steaks around so they are well coated.

4. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before cooking.

5. Meanwhile, prepare sauce. Melt butter in a small saucepan. Stir in flour. Slowly whisk in stock, stirring until thickened. Add lemon juice and capers and heat through. Slowly stir egg yolk into the sauce.

6. To cook lamb, remove from marinade and pat dry. Ensure the lamb is at room temperature. Spray a frying pan or grill with oil. Cook 2-3 minutes each side, until just pink inside. Serve with sauce.

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