By KARYN SCHERER
Retailers of beauty products are in a spot of bother. Like retailers of almost anything these days, they are worried about the impact of the internet on their sales.
They should be. Cosmetics, like books, travel and music, are proving an ideal product to flog over the World Wide Web.
Unfortunately for budding e-tailers, however, there is one hitch: there are some manufacturers who don't want a bar of the new technology.
Among the major brands refusing to deal with the growing number of online beauty stores are Lancome, Estee Lauder and Clinique.
Given that these three alone account for two-thirds of the prestige beauty market, it was either very brave or very optimistic of newly listed e-tailer BeautyDirect to claim in its prospectus this month that it intended to stock "all major brands."
It is not just the cosmetics industry that is grappling with such issues. Other major brands, such as Levi Strauss, have tried for years to maintain tight control over their distribution to maintain an exclusive image.
The situation is understandably frustrating for the new breed of businesspeople hoping to make a buck in the so-called "new economy."
Not only do they risk annoying customers by not being able to provide their favourite brands, they are also unable to count on what is potentially a much more reliable source of profit than cheaper mass-market goods widely found on the web.
The question, however, is whether the more conservative cosmetics companies can afford to maintain their stances.
By refusing to authorise sales over the internet they run the risk of encouraging unauthorised sales. There is also the worry their customers will switch to other brands such as Elizabeth Arden, which is enthusiastic about the potential of the net as a sales tool.
In fact, Estee Lauder is already showing some signs of buckling and is widely expected to strike a deal soon that will allow certain clicks-and-mortar companies to sell its products.
There is certainly no reason it and other companies such as Shiseido and Chanel could not create their own microsites which they could then provide to particular e-tailers.
As for traditional retailers, their concerns are also probably misplaced.
More than most products, cosmetics are assured a place in the bricks and mortar world simply because, for some women, wandering among the cosmetics counters at their favourite pharmacy or department store is a legitimate leisure activity.
While there will undoubtedly be a growing number of women who will enjoy the convenience of online shopping, there will always be those who want a free squirt of the latest perfume, and expert advice from trained consultants.
Ultimately, however, it is the job of the cosmetics companies to ensure their relationship with their customers is more than skin deep.
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