With hilltop castles, first-class wine and plenty of rustic charm, the pretty villages of Italy’s Langhe region make a peaceful escape, writes Kate Wickers
Through the soft violet haze, I spied my next destination – a dreamy-looking castle straight from the pages of a storybook, all spindly turrets and ivy-clad towers, encircled by green-leafed vineyards, fresh to bud.
Although I half-expected to see a prince on horseback charging through the landscape of hazelwood and vines, I reminded myself that this area of Piedmont in northern Italy is not just the stuff of fairytales. This is an ancient, working landscape of Barolo and Barbaresco winemakers and towering noble castles that’s historically been more popular with the nearby Milanese day-trippers than foreign tourists.
And it’s all the better for it. The quiet, lofty hamlets I explored – many topped with grand, centuries-old castles – are never overrun, unlike other comparable destinations further south, such as Tuscany or even Umbria. There’s no jostling for space with those on coach tours, and no having to take in the views through a sea of arms holding phones aloft for selfies.
Here, I had the twisting cobbled streets to myself, popping into bakeries to pick up fresh grissini (breadsticks) or sitting on quiet terraces with a glass of the local red. In fact, it’s that elixir that tempts most visitors – the Langhe is celebrated for its ancient Nebbiolo grape, which has notes of violet, cherry and prune.
The name of the grape is a reflection of the Langhe itself: it’s suggested it comes from the Italian word “nobile”, meaning “noble”, or “nebbia”, meaning “fog” – a reference to the gentle morning mist that cloaks the region’s vineyards.
The region is also famous for its slow food movement, which began in the town of Bra and is all about promoting what is traditional, seasonal, sustainable and local; local specialities include risotto made with Barolo wine, cooked salami or stuffed agnolotti pasta.
Just as well, then, that these picturesque villages are all scattered over steep hilltops – an excellent chance to burn off the calories you’ll no doubt be piling on.
Serralunga d’Alba
Considered the most attractive and historically intact village of the region, pretty Serralunga is a joy to wander around. Head to Vinoteca Centro Storico to tuck into antipasti of local salami and burrata, washed down with a glass of Barolo or Barbaresco, before heading to the village’s crowning glory, the slender Castello Serralunga.
With its soaring cylindrical towers it forms one of the finest examples of a 14th-century noble abode. Built in 1340, the castle’s one tower was originally used for observation until nobleman Pietrino Falletti took up residence in 1357 and added an extension and two more.
Inside it is stark but atmospheric with faded frescoes and stone fireplaces. and views across the Barolo vineyards and the town that grew up in concentric rings within its shadow. On a clear day, you can see the Alps along the horizon. If you are keen for a tour, it’s worth booking ahead, but you can also take your chances by ringing the bell and waiting for the concierge to creak open the door, making you feel like you’re on a Scooby Doo adventure.
Barolo
Oenophiles will be familiar with the largest of Langhe’s small towns as the place that lent its name to the rich, robust “King of Wines”, first produced here in the 19th century.
Those keen to learn more about the region’s viticulture should head to the WiMu, the innovative wine museum housed in the elegant 10th-century Castello Falletti. Step inside for interactive exhibits on winemaking, a cinema room showing clips of wine-related films, wine-inspired art installations and even a tasting.
Afterwards, take a stroll around Barolo’s beautiful medieval core, which bustles with independent businesses: restaurants, vintners, small-scale winemakers, and artisan food producers such as Panetteria Dal Forno dei Fratelli Cravero, a bakery where grissini breadsticks are expertly hand rolled, doors wide open to passers-by.
Grinzane Cavour
Piedmont is renowned for its truffles, and this pint-sized village near the town of Alba goes all-out in honour of the fabled fungus. Each autumn, at the peak of the truffle season, the Knights of the White Truffle gather at the magnificent, red-bricked 11th-century Castello Grinzane Cavour to auction the largest of white spores.
They can easily fetch a small fortune: in 2018 a truffle weighing almost a kilogram sold for a cool €85,000. At other times, however, the village is a sleepy rural retreat with just a snail trail of tourists, who come for the simple, sedate pleasure of a wander through the castle’s Museo delle Langhe, which focuses on the traditions of the region’s cuisine.
The setting is the biggest draw, however, and not to be missed is an hour or two on the self-guided wine walk through the vineyards, with information boards highlighting the region’s many grape varieties, and breathtaking views to boot.
Guarene
With little more than carefree cats and singing swifts for company, a stroll through the streets of Guarene is a calming way to spend the morning. Wind your way up the cobbled hills and through arched porticoes to the apex of the village, crowned by the elegant bulk of Guarene Castle.
The former summer residence of the Count of Roero is one the finest pieces of 18th-century architecture in Piedmont. It is now a hotel, so the only way to take a poke around this historic pad is by booking in for lunch or an overnight stay.
But it’s well worth the splurge: the manicured gardens of topiary and burbling fountains are beautiful, and a wander here offers you the chance to keep up with the Fallettis in their nearby castles.
Monforte d’Alba
In 2018, Monforte d’Alba won a place on Italy’s much-contended “I Borghi piu Belli d’Italia” (Most Beautiful Villages in Italy) list, which honours both scenic loveliness and cultural heritage. It’s not hard to see why on a wander from the handsome piazza, up through flowery side streets and past peach-coloured medieval houses.
The endpoint is the 13th-century brick bell tower and the faded baroque church of Santa Elisabetta, with views over terracotta rooftops and snow-capped Monviso, the highest mountain of the Cottian Alps.
Back in the piazza, stop for lunch at the lovely Caffe Enoteca Rocca, then pick up a “hills to experience” booklet from the tourist office, which details a number of local walks through vineyards, hazelnut groves and speck-sized settlements such as Sinio and Roddino.
La Morra
Gazing over a green scape of vineyards, La Morra is a pretty place to while away a few hours and, if you visit between Monday and Friday, you’ll find it peacefully empty of tourists. Settle down on the pretty, vine-shaded terrace of Ristorante Vinarte SNC on Piazza Castello and order the special of the day (ricotta-stuffed ravioli in sage butter, if you’re lucky).
From here, it’s a 15-minute amble down vineyard-flanked lanes to Cappella del Barolo, one of the most unexpected sights in Langhe. This hundred-year-old chapel was never consecrated and is now owned by winemaker Bruno Cerreti, who, in the late 90s, invited the American artist Sol LeWitt to jazz up the exterior.
He did so with aplomb, in eye-popping, bold-coloured wavy patterns that reflect the surrounding hills. The interior, meanwhile, was designed by British artist David Tremlett, who lavished it with marble, coloured Murano glass and earthy tones.
Checklist
Details
Langhe region, Italy
Getting there
Fly from Auckland to Milan, Italy with Qantas or Qatar with two transfers. From Milan, the Langhe region is approx. 2 hours, 20 minutes south by car.
- Telegraph Group Ltd