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How to open a top-tier restaurant in a pandemic? Rethink everything

By Mark Caro
New York Times·
11 mins to read
How to open a top-tier restaurant in a pandemic? Rethink everything
How to open a top-tier restaurant in a pandemic? Rethink everything

This one, Ever, debuts this week in Chicago with a pricey tasting menu and a world-class chef. But on the road to its opening, lofty visions have met hard reality.

The chef de cuisine was looking up mask prices online as the team at Ever discussed how to approach guests

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