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Home / The Country

Attention to detail vital for wine

Chris Steel
Katikati Advertiser·
29 Dec, 2016 01:00 AM4 mins to read

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Same classic boutique winery, only the name has changed.

Same classic boutique winery, only the name has changed.

Creating wine is an age old process.

But the key to creating award winning wine is attention to detail and consistency, says John Coney, owner of The Wine Portfolio, which has rebranded its winery on the outskirts of Katikati to Leveret Estate.

The company notched up a gold award at the Hawkes Bay Wine Awards for its Leveret Reserve Chardonnay and two golds at the premier Air NZ Wine Awards for its Leveret Chardonnay and Leveret Viognier.

Its Leveret Reserve Merlot Cabernet is now in Air NZ business class.

John bought what was Morton Estate in 1995. Since 1978 the estate has been a place where wine making is seen as an art, and not just a business. John's vision for the local winery was for consistency to become a hallmark.

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Two years ago the Morton Estate brand was sold to focus on other existing brands.

Nothing else has changed at the Aongatete vineyard, other than it is home to even more distinct boutique brands.

The Leveret brand is a descendant of the award-winning Coniglio range. The word "leveret" means young hare, three of which can be seen on the brand signage.

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John says the ears of the hares connect creating a triangular symbol that was used by the tin merchants of Devon, traders on the Silk Road.

Leveret Estate has 550 planted hectares of vineyards in prime locations in the Hawkes Bay and Marlborough. The entire process of their boutique winemaking is controlled.

"We have our own nurseries, our own vineyards, our own warehouses which are temperature controlled," says sales and marketing director, Fiona MacDiarmid.

"We know where the grapes have come from in every bottle."

"Consistency is what makes us stand out."

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Leveret Estate has a passionate team of winemakers committed to their craft - Michael Sweetlove, at the winery in Katikati and Leith Ashworth at Riverview Winery in Hawkes Bay.

Leveret Estate owner John Coney with Fiona MacDiarmid in Katikati checking on new signage.
Leveret Estate owner John Coney with Fiona MacDiarmid in Katikati checking on new signage.

Viticulture manager, Peter Scott, looks after three vineyards in Hawkes Bay and one in the South Island. He has been in the industry for 16 years and looks after the vines from bud burst.

Leith follows by nurturing the grapes and between them they work out the harvest operation.

Once the grapes are harvested they work with Michael who develops it to the end product.

September to January is the main crop with harvest in March/April. Peter says getting the decision right for harvest can be brutal and there is a level of stress, but it's rewarding as well.

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The Marlborough juice arrives in Katikati in tankers where the main factors happen.

"It's the soul of the company," he says. Michael came on board when the company restructured four years ago and it's paid good dividends for them, says John.

Leith is dedicated to his role. While watching the fruit grow, he says you become one with the grape.

"You taste it on the vine and envision how we can enlarge on the flavour and turn it into where we need it to be. We have to make every drop good."

Leith Ashworth, Peter Scott and Mike Sweetlove toast Leveret Estate's two gold award winners.
Leith Ashworth, Peter Scott and Mike Sweetlove toast Leveret Estate's two gold award winners.

Of their gold medal wins, Leith says he was "quietly confident".

John says being a judge, Leith has good knowledge of what the judges are looking for.

Since Leith has been on board the Pinot Noir has jumped up, John says.

"When we began in 1995 I tasted a 94 Hawkes Bay Pinot Noir in a barrel - it blew my socks off. With Leith here, I'm pleased with the direction the Pinot is going."

Leveret Estate is home to nine distinct brands including Coniglio, Falconhead, Mimi, IQ, Nikau Point, Mill Road, Southern Dawn, Penny Lane, Southern Cross and Cathedral Cove.

The products are increasing to satisfy the local market and a growing export market to China, United Kingdom and Australia.

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- The team is looking forward to 2017 and will be at the Avocado Food and Wine Festival on January 14. The Cellar Door south of Katikati is open seven days from 9.30am-5pm.

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