Candela restaurant on Karangahape Rd to shut doors after unexpected offer


By Tyson Beckett
Viva
Candela will turn the lights off at the end of July. Photo / Babiche Martens

Karangahape Rd restaurant Candela will have its final day of service this July.

After five years of service, decorated Auckland restaurant Candela will shut its doors at the end of the month.

Opening in December 2020, Candela will have its final day of service on Friday, July 25.

Announcing the closure, owner operators Matt Ross and Leola King reflected that “we opened Candela when we were just 25 and 27 years old with a dream to create something special. It’s been an incredible journey, filled with wonderful people and unforgettable memories.”

Partners (in life and business) Matt and Leola decided to call time on their running of the business after receiving an unexpected offer for the venue.

“We weren’t actively looking to sell, but the timing felt right,” they explained.

At the end of August, the former Candela space will be replaced by the second Auckland outpost of Benny’s American Burger. The Australian hamburger bar chain opened its first New Zealand store in Takapuna last December.

When Candela was crowned Supreme Winner of Viva’s Top 50 Auckland Restaurants in 2022, then-judge Albert Cho said, “Whether it’s spectacular food you’re looking for, or the first stop for a long, fun night out, Candela is a restaurant that can provide both.”

The Karangahape Road restaurant will shutter on July 25th.
The Karangahape Road restaurant will shutter on July 25th.

In his dedicated review of the Spanish eatery in February 2021, Viva’s resident Dining Out editor Jesse Mulligan praised the “spirited enthusiasm spilling out of the kitchen”.

In its nearly five years of operation, Matt and Leora have experienced many memorable moments.

One happened shortly after Covid lockdowns lifted in December 2021. The Karangahape Rd restaurant was hosting a wedding in the private dining room, as well as serving a busy restaurant full of diners.

“The bride arrived around 7pm, right in the middle of dinner service. She was in a gorgeous gown and had to walk the entire length of the restaurant to reach her private party out the back,” Leola remembers.

“The whole room went quiet, stood up and started clapping as I walked her through, there were happy tears and cheers from strangers – it was such a beautiful and emotional moment. After everything we’d all been through, it just felt like a moment of pure joy and connection for everyone. I’ll never forget it.”

"Consistency is everything," says Candela restaurant director Leola King. "If you can show up with the same care, energy, and standards day after day, your business will thrive. Trust is built in those small, repeated gestures." Photo / Babiche Martens
"Consistency is everything," says Candela restaurant director Leola King. "If you can show up with the same care, energy, and standards day after day, your business will thrive. Trust is built in those small, repeated gestures." Photo / Babiche Martens

Leola says moments like these are what stick with her, providing a reminder that going to a restaurant is never just about the food.

“It’s about connection, about theatre, atmosphere, and the joy of anticipation. It’s about creating moments people can look forward to and we need more of that now than ever before.”

Speaking about their future plans, Matt and Leola, who got married earlier this year, explained that “this feels like the perfect moment to pause, travel, explore new ideas, and focus on personal projects that have been waiting in the wings. This isn’t goodbye forever – we love this industry and expect to return in some shape or form in the future.”

Leola says it's important to remember a restaurant is a living, breathing network of connection. "You’re not simply opening a business; you’re becoming part of a community. There’s a responsibility in that, to hold space, to contribute, and to care for the people around you, from your suppliers to your team to your neighbours." Photo / Babiche Martens
Leola says it's important to remember a restaurant is a living, breathing network of connection. "You’re not simply opening a business; you’re becoming part of a community. There’s a responsibility in that, to hold space, to contribute, and to care for the people around you, from your suppliers to your team to your neighbours." Photo / Babiche Martens

Their half-decade in business has coincided with a particularly challenging period for the local hospitality sector, characterised by rising overheads. In his 2021 review, Jesse recommended the menu del dia tasting menu for $65 per head. Today, the menu del dia is $90 per person.

Leola likens running a hospitality business to doing constant mental gymnastics.

“You’re juggling everything, physically, emotionally, financially and even when you feel like there’s nothing left in the tank, you still have to show up, put on a brave face, and give your guests a beautiful experience. You’ve got to be strong for your team too, no matter what’s going on behind the scenes.

“There have been times when we’ve poured everything into a dish, a service, a moment, and someone still leaves a negative review. You have to learn to separate your worth from those responses. Sometimes your offering just isn’t for everyone, or their expectations are unreachable. It can be really tough when you’ve created something from the heart and it’s not well received because it feels personal.”

Candela's octopus with saffron-whipped potato. Photo / Babiche Martens
Candela's octopus with saffron-whipped potato. Photo / Babiche Martens

Critical acclaim was consistent, though. With a menu inspired by the flavours of the Iberian Coast, Candela steadily featured in Viva’s best restaurant lists. Last year, Viva’s former Deputy Editor – and 2023-2024 Top 60 Restaurants co-judge – Johanna Thornton wrote the spot “has always excelled in a party atmosphere and the promise of a great evening ahead, overseen by assured staff who work their magic to send you off into the night satisfied”.

Candela was also the first restaurant in Australasia to receive ICEX certification from the Spanish Government, a prestigious recognition awarded to restaurants serving authentic Spanish cuisine outside Spain.

In closing, Candela joins a growing list of venerated Auckland eateries winding down their operations in recent months.

Popular Karangahape Rd wine bar and neo-bistro Bar Celeste, and Tokki, a celebrated Korean restaurant in Milford, both closed in June.

In April, Ponsonby Road Bistro announced it was closing after 18 years in operation, later reopening as Gigi under new owners Luke Dallow and Thane Kirby.

Sid and Chand Sahrawat announced in April they were closing their restaurant Kol, citing challenging trading conditions. It has since been taken over by hospitality couple Ruchi and Sapan Parikh, who also own Red Fort and Spice Rack on the North Shore.

Matt and Leola say while operating Candela they've developed "a thicker skin and a quiet resilience. We've had to let go of the need to please everyone and instead stay focused on what feels true to us. That’s been a hard but valuable lesson."
Matt and Leola say while operating Candela they've developed "a thicker skin and a quiet resilience. We've had to let go of the need to please everyone and instead stay focused on what feels true to us. That’s been a hard but valuable lesson."

Matt and Leola will retain ownership of the Candela brand, so while the eatery will cease to operate at 155 Karangahape Rd at the end of July, there’s hope this is a case of hasta luego rather than adios.

The couple say their time on Karangahape Rd has been hugely formative.

“We’ve grown immensely not only as business owners but as people. We’ve had the privilege of connecting with some truly remarkable individuals, and have learnt a great deal about resilience, creative thinking, and problem-solving.

“We’ve become part of a wider community of restaurateurs who have been a constant source of support and inspiration. We feel incredibly lucky to be in a country where generosity and collaboration are such defining qualities.

“We invite everyone to join us in these final weeks to celebrate Candela one last time.”

Tyson Beckett is an Aucklander who is near fanatical about the fashion, culture and dining opportunities available in her hometown. She gets to highlight and dissect them all as part of her role at the New Zealand Herald.

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