Retail Report: What Store Owners Are Selling, Seeing & Saying About Clothes Shopping Right Now

The way we shop has changed significantly in recent years. Previously, Viva asked a panel of consumer behaviour observers to share how shopping for fashion is changing. For this Retail Report, entrepreneurs discuss the business of running a clothing boutique, from what they look for when choosing designers they’ll stock, to the challenges they’re currently facing.

For New Zealand designers and their potential customers, brick-and-mortar boutique stores offer an important point of connection.

The physical storefronts showcase New Zealand-made clothing or creations from local designers, providing crucial closeness for consumers within a landscape littered with fast fashion. With their collation of pieces from local industry, these retailers connect us to creatives who nurture and explore a diverse national style identity.

For independent designers, boutique clothing stores also provide the opportunity to showcase in a physical location — without the risks and commitments of launching into a storefront themselves.

These environments are particularly important for emerging designers. They can begin to cultivate and experiment with design aesthetics, connect with customers, fellow creatives and industry professionals and, potentially, garner some capital through their design work.

But, of course, retail environments are both changeable and challenging. With a recessionary squeeze, diverse customer expectations and the insistent presence of inexpensive online and overseas fast fashion, physical storefronts are working hard to maintain their crucial place in our local fashion industry.

To better understand how local boutiques are showcasing the work of our creatives and designers, we talk to purveyors about what their corner of retail and fashion looks like right now.

Vicki Taylor

The last fashion item I purchased was ... the Taylor Perception Pant from our current winter collection; it’s made in a super-fine Italian wool and is manufactured here in Auckland. It is part-trouser, part-skirt, so easily works into my weekly work outfits. I’ve also been living in the Landing Coat as our temps start to drop.

When we’re curating the collection in The Shelter, we ... make a carefully considered decision. The work must have a high level of design authenticity, fabrication and quality manufacture. We look for designers who are thoughtful and considered with a unique brand identity.

I think it’s important to share that we don’t curate the selections from our New Zealand designers. The Shelter is a space where the designers themselves select pieces from their collection to show. They get full autonomy over their racks, window displays and events so they can experience the bricks-and-mortar without the commitment of running a full store. This keeps our offering true to the designers’ vision. Our team then collaborates with the designer, sharing notes on what our clients are looking for and feedback on styles, fit and fabric to help inform collections and edits.

We often have the designers in-store with us as part of what has been coined Saturday Designer Sessions. There is nothing like being styled by the person who created your piece and them explaining the story behind each design.

Currently, customers are gravitating towards ... knitwear and warmer layers. With the lower temperatures, it’s noticeable that these are top of mind. Lela Jacobs’ possum merino knitwear is sought after every season, and her latest collection’s lilac hue is stunning. We also have had a fabulous reaction to Claudia Li’s cowl-neck convertible vest for its versatility.

We have been getting quite a few requests to introduce men’s designs into The Shelter, so we have recently introduced two menswear brands to the space: J’ake and Finding Jaga. Locally designed and manufactured, both brands have different looks and are getting a lot of interest.

Right now in fashion ... it’s imperative for us to support our local creative talents to give them a springboard to expand their markets. Sometimes, that’s not just through purchasing a piece from them, but following them on social media, sharing their work, attending events, talking to friends and family about your favourite brands.

With a lot fewer resources readily available in New Zealand for young designers, the amount of work that goes into manufacturing here has completely changed. When you’re purchasing a New Zealand-made garment, you’re supporting five other businesses (sometimes more!) from sampling, sewing, the local fabric suppliers and pressers. Supporting local has such a flow-on effect, so as part of The Shelter’s emerging designer programme, we are focused on being part of growing these brands to a level that allows them to head off on their own.

Co-founder of Crushes, an Auckland-based boutique store that showcases New Zealand-made pieces and vintage and secondhand clothing on Karangahape Road.

The last fashion item I purchased was ... a pair of socks. I only purchase second-hand because shopping according to my values is so intrinsic to the happiness of my soul — I struggle to purchase anything new without much caution. My last purchase was 13 months ago. It was a pair of cashmere cotton socks from Uki Goods, a small Japanese brand. I know cherishing quality socks I wear every day was a great and timeless choice.

I feel it’s important that pieces at Crushes have ... a unique point of view, artisanship and quality of materials. We also look for a combination of seven values: handmade, small business, female-owned, Māori- or Pasifika-owned, socially conscious, using natural materials and recycled materials. All have to be New Zealand-made. Some businesses tick many of these, which makes their pieces that much more special.

Outside of the retail space ... we try to activate and engage our community, through Crushes Social Club, to think about extending the life cycle of clothing. We do this with repair workshops, as well as our extremely popular Crushes Clothes Swap. The clothes swap regularly [attracts] 450+ people seasonally. We were honoured to ensure that the conversation of a clothing exchange was part of New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria with our Designer Clothes Swap.

Right now, in fashion ... it feels like Auckland City is dead and our confidence in retail is dwindling at the moment. At least, it feels that way with so many of our contemporaries closing as costs are rising all around, including rent, operating expenses and wages. It feels quite daunting as we look down the barrel of winter. But, having a retail space is one of our greatest joys! Great stores create great cities. We really don’t want to lose that.

In our interactions with customers, we are seeing ... a change in behaviour with shopping habits, as the conversation about conscious consumerism has grown in the zeitgeist. When we first opened in 2011, the prevailing comment would be, “I can make this,” or, “Why is it so expensive?” The materials to make [these pieces] are more expensive (let alone the labour). As we started focusing on promoting the makers and stories themselves, people started to understand the value.

I think 2020 showed the biggest change of attitude. All of a sudden, our communities started thinking about what shops, restaurants and brands they couldn’t let slip into closure. People were very deliberate with their spending and we were so supported through that time as our communities really showed up. Since then, we haven’t needed to focus on why people should shop locally. Now, customers are the ones prompting the questions — like “Who made this?” and “Out of what material?” It’s fantastic to see such a change.

Hannah Sullivan

Founder of Wellington’s little blue shop Sully’s, based on Ghunzee Street. Sully’s stocks both international brands and local designers.

The last fashion item I purchased was ... a Story MFG shirt from Sully’s but I honestly cannot remember the last thing I purchased from outside the store.

When it comes to my personal approach to fashion ... I’ve always had the less-is-more philosophy when it comes to shopping. I gravitate towards timeless silhouettes and items that truly resonate with me — things I will cherish for a long time.

When I’m curating the collection in Sully’s ... one of my priorities is the quality of garments, an attribute that many designers in Aotearoa excel at. Equally important is ensuring that each piece marries well with the other offerings at Sully’s. Given the size of Wellington, I prefer to offer items that you can’t find at neighbouring stores. I gravitate towards pieces that have a distinctiveness and a story behind them and also ensuring that I have a solid relationship with the designer is just as important.

I feel it’s important that pieces at Sully’s have ... a sense of excitement, wonder and appreciation for the craftsmanship in each piece. Alongside these qualities, functionality and longevity are paramount considerations.

In my collaborations with designers ... there are lots of discussions about the brand’s ethos and the design process, often involving looking through their upcoming lookbooks, typically curated for the next season, often six months ahead. The process flows more organically with smaller brands, often involving the selection of pieces they’ve already created.

Collaborating and creating relationships with New Zealand designers and makers is truly a delightful experience. Despite the current challenges, I believe it is crucial to provide them with the platform they deserve in the global market.

Right now, in fashion ... many brands, both local and international, are seeking physical retail spaces to showcase their products. This is a great opportunity for boutique stores like Sully’s, however, it’s challenging to predict the feasibility of expanding in the midst of a recession. It’s hard to tell what customers’ spending habits will look like in the near future.

Customers are gravitating towards ... essential, smaller items such as knitwear, particularly with the colder weather just around the corner. Alternatively, they’re also drawn to unique must-have items that they simply can’t resist. It seems like people are prioritising practicality and unique finds over mere wants when they shop.

Angela Gordon

Creative director at Wellington’s The Service Depot, an independent fashion store on Ghunzee Street.

The last fashion items I purchased were ... from two remarkable designers and have left me utterly enchanted. From the creative genius of Brooke Georgia, I acquired a stunning Being Clothes skirt crafted from repurposed vintage kimono silk, showcasing a whimsical allure that reflects her brand so well. I also acquired a custom-designed jacquard jacket by Henrik Vibskov — one of our favourite international brands.

When we’re curating our collection of independent New Zealand designers ... several key elements take precedence. The brands have to align with our values. There are the conceptual ideas behind the garment that tell their own story, so vital to the collections. Quality and longevity are paramount; we seek garments that not only exude beauty but also withstand the test of time, both in terms of durability and timeless style.

Sustainability and ethical practices hold significant importance in our selection process. We respect designers who embrace eco-friendly materials or repurpose textiles, echoing our commitment to environmental responsibility. New Zealand designers like Lela Jacobs and Anntian from Berlin have long been at the forefront of this movement, aligning perfectly with our values.

Of course, we carry legacy brands like NOM*d, which have led the fashion scene for more than 30 years. Alongside those icons, you will find Rory William Docherty, Jimmy D, Being Clothes, James Brown, Otsu, Masami, Emma Jing and Taylor Groves and so many more. As well as clothing, we stock an amazing array of independent jewellery designers and fragrances.

But, ultimately our collections showcase a blend of New Zealand and/or independent designers whose manufacturing and craftsmanship are truly unique to the fashion landscape. We are so grateful to our clientele who know us well and are not merely about acquiring clothing but investing in pieces that embody a rich tapestry of creativity, tradition and conscientiousness.

Right now, at The Service Depot ... we find ourselves balancing opportunity and challenges in an ever-changing market. On one hand, there’s a burgeoning consumer appetite for sustainable fashion, coupled with a genuine appreciation for independent fashion. But we also appreciate the cost of production for our designers. Couple that pressure with general uncertainty in the economy and conservative spending at the moment and it’s not easy to follow your dreams as a creative in the fashion industry while balancing the business side of things.

But we are always here to support those independents and offer advice where we can. From my own experience, there have always been tough moments and more fluid moments in the fashion and retail world. The trick is to accept and adapt — without losing your nerve.

In our interactions with our customers ... it’s been truly heartening to see strong support shown for New Zealand fashion. Their dedication speaks volumes about the quality and appeal of our brands. Building such a loyal customer base is a testament to the excellence and innovation within the New Zealand fashion industry. Despite the challenges, there have been enormously positive changes — such as the trends towards quality and sustainability. I expect that trend only to grow as people become more mindful of what they put on and in their bodies.

Ten years ago I could have given you a solid prediction on what to expect in the fashion business, but really, the most exciting thing right now is that it’s a brave new world out there.

Jess Scott

Director of Bizzare Bazaar, a store based in Te Aro that offers independent designer as well as curated vintage, Y2K and pre-loved clothing.

The last fashion item I purchased was ... the wildest ruched silk puffball mini skirt from Karla Laidlaw — she’s an independent designer from Melbourne, and I’m super-obsessed with her work.

In my approach to fashion ... I only buy secondhand or independent designer pieces, aside from shoes (purveyors of six-inch platform boots are somewhat limited).

And, surprise, surprise, I get most of my clothes from the store. On a rare day off, I’ll have a peruse through Hunters & Collectors, otherwise, I don’t shop in real life (unless I’m travelling internationally — in which case, I shop like it’s a competitive sport).

I modelled Bizzare Bazaar on this approach to shopping; buying directly from small designers or trawling resale sites like Depop, eBay and Vestiaire. It made sense for a physical retail experience to reflect these online habits.

My curatorial process for New Zealand designers ... is very intuitive. I know it when I see it. I’m initially drawn in by aesthetics, innovation and uniqueness. Then, I’ll consider practicalities, like the quality of construction, how sustainable a designer’s practices are, how commercially viable a garment is, whether we’d reasonably be able to sell it at a price where the designer is fairly compensated for their work, it’s wearability, how it needs to be washed and maintained. It’s a process.

At Bizarre Bazaar, it’s important that the pieces ... will last, transcend trend cycles and become personal style staples. I have zero interest in following trends. For me, styling is more like matchmaking — a process of pairing a person with just the right piece for their tastes, desires and needs.

Outside of the retail space ... we’re hosting at least one in-store “artist spotlight” event each month, where we either introduce a new designer or launch a new collection. In the past we’ve put on these events in collaboration with DJs, tattooists and pole performers, we’ve had live screen printing and we once hosted a runway show.

I’d like to diversify and use these connections to create more opportunities for creatives working outside of the fashion space, through the intersections of fashion with music, art, film and performance. In the immediate future, I’m keen to host more live music events — perhaps get some decks for the store and create a space where emerging DJs (particularly female, non-binary and queer DJs) can have a spin in a low-stakes, supportive environment.

Working as a creative can be isolating, so these kinds of events are important for connecting the community. I’ve met most of my close friends through the store, witnessed whole new friend groups form and seen so many creative endeavours cooked up by people who’ve met through the shop. It’s like moths to a flame: you create the space and like-minded people will seek it out.

Some of the opportunities and challenges Bizarre Bazaar is facing right now include ... the mass exodus; the huge wave of young people moving abroad. It has been pretty rough. Over the past year, a lot of our customers and collaborators have left New Zealand, which has the (already limited) fashionscape feeling pretty empty.

This pushed me to boost the store’s digital presence — I launched the BB Cyberstore a year ago, which has been incredible for reaching new audiences and solidifying the store as both a physical and online fashion destination. The digital community the store has cultivated is unbelievable. I’m constantly surprised by how far it reaches. I am genuinely amazed at how many designers from the other side of the world contact us wanting to be stocked.

Right now, customers ... are voting with their money and investing in brands whose practices align with their values, and who they feel speak to what is important to them.

I think customers are making a deliberate effort to support the designers they love, as they’re genuinely worried they may not survive if they don’t. While it’s a scary time, this more considered approach to shopping does mean people are buying fewer, better quality pieces, which, unless you’re Shein, can only be a good thing.

Brydon Smallbone and Kelsi

Owner Brydon Smallbone and manager Kelsi of Wānaka-based store 47 Frocks.

The last fashion item we both purchased was ... the latest Lela Jacobs knitwear. The fibre content and ultimate cosiness of possum, silk and merino blend and being made in New Zealand (a huge bonus for us) make it the best for being down here in Wānaka over winter. The longevity of this knitwear is fabulous too.

In our personal approach to shopping for fashion ... we both are lucky enough to know what works in our wardrobe, so we look for high-quality pieces that will fit seamlessly into what we already own and refresh our wardrobes.

Every now and then, there’s a splash of fun. Jimmy D prints and Kowtow colour-blocking is a must! The upcoming inversion days down here need to be cosy but heavy on the dopamine dressing.

When we’re curating the collection in 47 Frocks, we look for ... different pieces from each designer that stay true to their unique style, while considering cohesiveness for merchandising once in-store and items that we personally love.

Wānaka has some of the most beautiful and well-curated retail in the South Island. It is a small and close community and we enjoy being able to offer different options that you can’t get elsewhere in town — something that our New Zealand designers make easy for us.

Retail has been challenging ... but we know everyone is feeling this nationwide and globally. We have been focusing on knuckling down during these quieter times to work on where we want to be in the next few years. We are fortunate that being a boutique with predominantly New Zealand designers means having close relationships with our designers is a possibility. Our focus on New Zealand designers has meant fewer delays and more consistency with what they and we can deliver to our customers (particularly with those that still manufacture in New Zealand).

Customers are gravitating towards ... knitwear. We have already had some really crisp mornings and evenings in town, knitwear or cosy layers are a must.

We have also seen a change in the last few seasons towards items that serve more than one purpose, increasing the wearability and longevity of items in your wardrobe. There is increased thoughtfulness going into purchases, which we love to see. We believe this way of thinking is also reflected in the work of our New Zealand designers.

Right now in fashion ... we believe that supporting the design and manufacturing industry in New Zealand is very important. There seems to unfortunately be a decline in the skills for manufacturing available in this country and it would be amazing to see this sector thrive again. For this to happen there needs to be support of our New Zealand-based fashion industry. We are lucky to have so many creative, talented designers. We hope that the industry continues to grow, allowing our existing designers to thrive and creating opportunities for new emerging Kiwi designers.

Madeleine Crutchley is a multimedia journalist for Viva and premium lifestyle and entertainment at the New Zealand Herald. She covers stories relating to fashion, culture and food and drink, from her hometown of Auckland.

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