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Home / Hawkes Bay Today

Napier coffee guru shares his expertise

By Astrid Austin
Hawkes Bay Today·
13 Apr, 2018 09:00 PM3 mins to read

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Benny Fernandez, owner of Georgia on Tennyson, in Napier is an expert in all things coffee. Photo / Warren Buckland

Benny Fernandez, owner of Georgia on Tennyson, in Napier is an expert in all things coffee. Photo / Warren Buckland

It's no secret that making the perfect coffee brew is an art form and a skill that takes time to master.

Owner of Napier's Georgia Cafe on Tennyson Benny Fernandez is no stranger to this, having perfected it to the degree that he now brings specialty coffee and alternative brewing methods to those in Napier and beyond.

"I love the subjective nature of coffee," Fernandez says.

"Everyone knows what they like, and we like to cater for people who know what they want.

"Be it temperature, strength, brewing method or size. I think everybody loves coffee in their own way."

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Set behind the backdrop of a wall lined with vintage "Atomic coffee makers" designed by Italian industrial designer Robbiatti on one side and then the hustle and bustle of Napier on the other side, hundreds of customers flock to his cafe daily.

Atomic coffee maker's line a wall in the cafe. Photo/Warren Buckland
Atomic coffee maker's line a wall in the cafe. Photo/Warren Buckland

This summer they have found a noticeable lift in iced/cold coffee sales, something which Fernandez believes is due to the region's climate.

"We do a super tasty Japanese 'cold drip' coffee which takes upwards of 10 hours to brew, is brewed cold and served over ice with a wedge of local citrus fruit. The flavours are unlike any other coffee you've ever tasted," he said.

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Despite this, there is no denying Kiwis enjoy their milk.

"Kiwis in general love their milk. With good reason I suppose," Fernandez says.

"Latte-based espresso is king here in the Bay."

It is so much so that some espresso machine manufacturers have had to modify machines destined for the market to have higher capacity steam boilers for coffee connoisseurs to steam litres and litres of milk.

Personally, Fernandez' favourite brew is filter coffee.

"It brings a certain clarity to the cup which other methods like espresso simply cannot achieve."

The current movement is to actually go away from blends, and instead focus on and showcase the inherent characteristics of single-origin coffee by offering coffee in ways other than blends.

"Much like wine, different coffee varietals can bring with them different flavour characteristics depending on where they are grown [think metres above sea level], how they are processed, and even what the weather conditions are like prior to harvest.

"Blends have their place, but to really appreciate a good, single estate grown micro-lot you need to really understand the coffee and experimenting on how to extract the best flavour from it."

Benny Fernandez makes a carefully crafted cup of coffee. Photo / Warren Buckland
Benny Fernandez makes a carefully crafted cup of coffee. Photo / Warren Buckland

For those wanting to try their hand at making a good cuppa, never buying pre-ground coffee is the key.

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As soon as coffee is ground, the cells that hold the flavour [oils] begin to evaporate, and what oil is left behind begins to rapidly oxidise, making for a bitter, insipid brew regardless of your chosen brewing method, the coffee guru added.

The key, he believes, is to buy a good burr grinder to enjoy good, fresh coffee.

However, he warns that coffee that is too fresh needs to rest post-roast, up to five days in most cases, which gives about a 10 day window to get the best from your coffee.

"I recommend making friends with your local roaster, sharing your flavour preferences with them and let them guide you through the options."

At the end of the day Fernandez believes the best way to go is to "drink responsibly and drink local".

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