What’s going on in food? Johanna Thornton has the latest in new openings, events to book and the movements at SPQR.
If the events, new openings and special offers in this edition of The Dish are anything to go by, the hospitality scene is doing everything it can to innovate
Viva was invited on The Front Page podcast to talk about this very issue with AUT Hospitality Tourism professor David Williamson, who notes that given the current challenges restaurants are facing, it’s less surprising how many are being forced to close, but how many are able to remain trading at all. It’s more important than ever to get out and support restaurants, bars and cafes, if you’re in a position to do so, and The Dish highlights a few that are worthy of your attention. Happy dining!
New opening: Lionel’s Bistro and Bar opens in Taupō
We’ve just heard word of a new restaurant opening in Taupō – a family-owned bistro and bar on Northcroft St. The Mediterranean-inspired bistro “celebrates the seasons and local ingredients”, under the direction of chef Reuben Lynn, who previously helmed the kitchen at Hilton Taupō. Lionel’s aims to be warm and inviting, with an interior of locally crafted wooden tables, wood-panelled walls, and brown leather booths. The menu includes dishes like olives; chicken liver parfait; toasted focaccia with bacon jam, and mains of slow-braised duck with oyster mushrooms and grilled organic half chicken with romesco and smoked yoghurt. Find it at 14 Northcroft St, Taupō
New opening: Sammy’s deli and diner opens at Ponsonby Central
Setting up shop on the Ponsonby Rd side of Ponsonby Central, next to The Blue Breeze Inn, is Sammy’s Deli & Diner, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner serving a menu of breakfast rolls, sandwiches, hot wings and desserts. Owners Lorene Politzer, Tim Nightingale, and James Tucker saw a need for a warm and inviting deli and diner in Auckland that offered a “Kiwi twist”. “A place where people could come together and enjoy good times,” says Lorene. “This vision led to Sammy’s, a place where everyone feels at home. We’re fun, relaxed and not too serious, except about our rolls and toasties.”
For breakfast there are diner-style go-tos like steak and eggs, but also granola with poached pears, and avocado toast with whipped feta. For the sandwiches, the team worked with Dusty Apron to develop a brioche roll that could handle a load of bold flavours. Choose from smash beef patty sammies, chicken rolls and sourdough toasties, available to take away. For dinner, opt for fish schnitzel or “brick chicken” with smoked mash and gravy. “We wanted to create a menu that brings back core memories as well as create some new ones. We are all about amazing quality at an affordable price.” The drinks are “quick, affordable and cheerful”, with Sawmill beers on tap, and cocktails on tap too – negronis, spicy margs, mai tais and espresso martinis, as well as wines by the glass and bottle. 136 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby
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Commercial Bay’s annual Summer Solstice returns with special food deals
Celebration is in the air in downtown Auckland. Premium shopping and dining precinct Commercial Bay is getting a jump on the sunny season with “Solstice”, its three-day shopping and hospitality event hailing the countdown to summer with a bevy of activations and offers from September 13-15. Saturday, September 14 sees the return of the first of two fashion shows on the ground-level laneway, which is open to everyone, and showcases summer fashion from Commercial Bay retailers. It kicks off at 8pm with music from Ladi6.
In terms of hospitality, the precinct’s participating restaurants and bars have special offers and delicious deals to make the most of. At spectacular rooftop bar Queens Rooftop, you can enjoy a glass of champagne and a crayfish and kawakawa aioli brioche roll for $40; The Lodge Bar & Dining has a Solstice Snack Special for $85 that includes meat pie croquettes, cheeses and fries, and at French bistro Origine, two cocktails will set you back $30. At Reign & Pour, you can choose any small plate and have a house lager or wine for $20. Plus, shoppers who spend over $150 in any “Solstice” participating retailer will get the chance to win a $5000 Commercial Bay spending spree. Solstice at Commerical Bay, 7 Queen St, Auckland CBD. September 13-15. Find more info here.
Ebisu offers unlimited sushi and sashimi on Saturdays
Until October 12, visit Ebisu in Britomart on a Saturday for a Japanese-style buffet of sushi, sashimi, salad and more with a difference – it’s all you can eat. As part of Savor’s Food Fest 2024, participating restaurants are enticing people with special offers, and Ebisu’s Oki No menu sounds pretty irresistible. The unlimited sushi is a mix of “classic and contemporary” flavours, with salmon avocado, hosomaki, vege rolls, ebi mayo rolls, prawn tempura rolls, mixed market fish rolls and more. The sashimi includes tuna, salmon, kingfish and hand-rolled nigiri. There’s also a selection of Japanese salads to enjoy, soba noodles from the noodle station and a selection of hot dishes. To drink? Enjoy Moët et Chandon for $99 a bottle, $15 cocktails and $10 Asahi. Available every Saturday 11am until 4pm for $85pp (children are half price and the seating time is two hours). Bookings recommended. 116-118 Quay Street, Britomart
Ponsonby Rd icon SPQR has new owners
Since announcing its closure in July, SPQR’s doors have been firmly shut with a sign on the window alerting passersby that it was no longer trading. But now, hoardings are up and there’s movement inside the restaurant again. Hospitality sisters Bronwyn and Jessica Payne, owners of nearby Elmos restaurant and Hoppers bar, have purchased the business after seeing an opportunity to “breathe new life into the legendary site”. The pair have indicated the restaurant will be closed until Christmas for “much needed” renovations but have assured regulars that the famous copper bar will remain. “We will be creating something new, playful and spectacular – while committed to maintaining the building’s history and SPQR’s unique place in the community in a variety of ways. This new venture will invite all walks of life, a place for old and new faces to enjoy themselves as it has always been at 150 Ponsonby Rd.”
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Rosewood Matakauri, Queenstown, opens its dining room to everyone
Wānaka-based food writer Jo Elwin recently rounded up some of the most spectacular dining experiences just outside of Queenstown, including a visit to Rosewood Matakauri. Eight months after Rosewood Hotels and Resorts assumed management of Matakauri, a few changes have emerged at Queenstown’s intimate luxury lodge. But fear not, it’s all good. Jo couldn’t be more excited that executive chef Jonathan Rogers is still managing the kitchen and they’ve relaxed the exclusivity, opening the dining room to everyone, where once you could only enjoy this five-star dining experience if you were a house guest. It’s hard to find a good meal that doesn’t come with a view in Central Otago, but Rosewood Matakauri is one of the best, perched in a landscape of natives above an expanse of Lake Wakatipu, taking in the drama of the snowcapped Remarkables, and Cecil and Walter Peaks. It’s jaw-dropping and, when the 51m Earnslaw cruises past looking like a dinghy, you realise the scale of the surrounds. Jonathan has maintained an exceptional standard throughout his 10-year tenure, his menus always bursting with the very best seasonal produce, and we like that he doesn’t limit himself to southern delicacies: Te Kouma oysters, Whitianga kingfish and Easterbrook duck delighting as much as Lake Ōhau beef, Cromwell pears and Matakauri honey. Put yourself in Chef’s hands with tasting menus of different sizes for lunch and dinner, or go a la carte. A knowledgeable team ensure you get the right drop from a confident wine list to match the food and the occasion, and we love that the occasion can now be just because we can. Make a booking at Rosewoodhotels.com
Fine dining restaurant Sidart announces a pivot to Italian fare
On the same day it was awarded two hats in Cuisine’s Good Food Guide, Sidart announced big changes, with the business moving away from the fine-dining cuisine that made it famous, in favour of a more relaxed menu offering and decor. Chef and owner Lesley Chandra, who took the reins from Sid Sahrawhat in 2021, has continued to build on Sidart’s award-winning legacy, turning out beautiful refined fare that leaned into his Fijian heritage, and experience working at Cassia, Baduzzi and Sid at the French Cafe. It’s seen Sidart place in Viva’s Top 50 Auckland restaurants for the past three years.
The decision to pivot to a casual Italian dining experience comes after consideration and feedback from guests, says Lesley. From September 4, Sidart will “relax its atmosphere” and lean on Italian flavours for the food. Lesley says the change will bring the simplicity, warmth and “communal spirit” of Italian dining to the Ponsonby Rd restaurant. “It’s a new chapter for Sidart, but it’s one that’s deeply rooted in my passion and past experience with Italian cuisine.”
While Sidart previously favoured a set menu, this new looser menu features modern and traditional Italian fare, like South Island scampi with fazzoletti, and ricotta ravioli in truffle sauce with black garlic. There will be a daily changing fish crudo, and desserts like tiramisu and lemon tart. The Three Lamps restaurant’s interior has recently been redesigned to make the most of the views of the Auckland skyline, with the Alhambra room featuring floor-to-ceiling windows.
Why the change? It’s tough out there for restaurants, with many choosing to innovate or change up their offering to adapt to the challenging current economic climate. Watch this space. Find Sidart at 283 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby
Acme’s Roman range of cups is now available in bowls and plates
Wellington-based Acme Cupco’s Roman range of cups – the finer, lighter style of cups designed for espresso – have expanded into tableware with the addition of two bowls and two plates in various sizes, rendered in the popular Milk and Kawakawa colours. “Our Roman range quickly became our most popular after we launched the cups and saucers five years ago,” says Megan Wyper, co-owner of Acme. “We wanted to offer even more versatility, allowing people to set their entire table with this collection.” A set of four small bowls is priced from $94 and the small plates are $70, while a 26cm plate is $136 for four. Shop the range here.
New product: Slowlife Collection’s range of picnic and outdoor ware
We recently came across Slowlife’s premium range of picnic and outdoor ware, designed by Hawke’s Bay-based Loulou Ellingham. She was inspired to launch Slowlife Collection with utility, beauty and whimsy in mind, creating a range of hardwearing picnic rugs ($250), cooler bags ($195), lunch bags ($110) and transportable cushions ($95) ideal for summer days at the beach, or “throwing in the car for a roadside snack”. Constructed from hardy, high-quality cotton canvas, the picnic bags feature Slowlife’s signature striped lining, robust carry handles and leather detailing, and are rendered in tan, navy and stripe - they’re good-looking bags that you’d be proud to bring to a picnic with friends, as well as being functional. The cooler bags are designed to keep food and drinks cool for 24 hours and have compartments for storing all sorts of goodies. A Slowlife piece would make an ideal gift for someone hard to buy. Find the full range online here.
What The Viva Team Has Been Eating And Drinking This Week ...
Tuna crudo from Farina
It took four tries to get a table at the very busy newly renovated Farina but I finally managed to score a seat recently for a family dinner. The restaurant has expanded into what was once a Thai restaurant next door, adding new booth seating and a mix of high and low tables at the front of the dining room. We sat down the back near the pizza oven, where the noise level was considerable but understandable considering every seat was full. The food at Farina is better than ever. Highlights were this fresh and bright tuna crudo with orange, chilli, and a shallot and caper dressing, a great way to start a shared dinner. I arrived dreaming of a big bowl of pasta and the cappellacci did not disappoint. Perfectly al dente pasta parcels were stuffed with duck and nestled in butter and sage sauce with truffle carpaccio and parmesan. Truly the best plate of pasta I’ve had in a while. To finish? Cannolli and tiramisu. – Johanna Thornton, deputy editor lifestyle premium
Cornbread from Burnt Butter Diner
From cake for breakfast to chilli fried eggs, I’ve been steadily making my way through the excellent menu at Avondale’s Burnt Butter and I’m yet to be disappointed. On my last trip to the diner, I ordered the cornbread, which was served with spicy beans, a perfectly poached egg and Manchego cheese (I went without chorizo to suit my plant-based preference). Alongside this homely plate, I sipped one of their filter coffees, topped up with sweetened condensed milk. Burnt Butter has nailed the mood of a welcoming breakfast spot. The interior of the narrow dining room is so lovely – the diner accommodates customers with two small tables, one long communal dining table and a pillowed window nook. Though the sunny interior is embracing, I’m yet to nab a seat inside for breakfast – apparently, my Saturday slumber runs too late to compete with the eager crowds. Instead, I’ve been happy to perch with friends outside and chat to other regulars sitting along the wooden table and bench (happily comparing notes on our favourite menu items). I look forward to returning in warmer weather. Next, I’ve got my eye on the mussel fritters. – Madeleine Crutchley, multimedia journalist
Canele from anywhere
I don’t have a hugely sweet tooth, my favourite type of little treat comes in the form of a wee morsel that can be dunked into a black coffee to offset the saccharine factor. I frequently eat the tahini chocolate cookies from Williams Eatery this way, but my preferred dunker of choice will always and forever be a canelé. If you’re not familiar, these petite French pastries they look like tiny fluted bundt cakes – with a thick caramelized crust on the outside that gives way to a spongey vanilla (and sometimes rum) spiked custardy dough in the middle that acts as an incredibly delicious sponge. Daily Daily on Karangahape Rd often has them, as does La Petite Fourchette in Wynyard Quarter and their Ponsonby outpost Copain. I was at Atelier Shu in Newmarket on a recent sunny afternoon and spotted raspberry and matcha versions, I don’t believe in messing with the classics though, so grabbed an original. – Tyson Beckett, multimedia journalist
Johanna Thornton is deputy editor of Viva and lifestyle premium for the NZ Herald with an extensive background in lifestyle journalism. Recent features for Viva Premium include this luxury cruise review, dinner on top of the world at Blue Duck Station, and charting the rise of the martini in New Zealand.
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